Xylitol's pages

Time to mine, es geht los!

Hardware:

MSI Z97 Gaming 5
AMD Sapphire Rx570
PCI-E Riser Cables
CX750 750w 80+ Bronze Corsair
1200w Platinum HP + PciE ports plate
Intel Celeron G1840
Kingdian S200 SSD 60GB
HyperX Fury 4GB
--
Wooden battens 22X22X2000mm
Phillips-square flat-head wood screws

Subproject: getting balance from mining pool: https://hackaday.io/project/27106-internet-controllable-led-message-marquee

I'm the owner of a Sunhokey prusa i3 2015 model, and i forgot to talk about it so here is a review of my model.

Build volume is 200mm x 200mm x180mm (approximate) arround 15KG and 12v rated.

I bought it in kit to assemble for 300$ (including taxes) from Shenzhen Sunhokey Electronics Co.
Here is the global view of the printer:

The Hotbed is a MK2b, with a BuildTak plastic sheet on print bed.
Customized with a Hackers sticker and a RGB 5050 SMD LED strip.

IR Remote controler for LED.

Comparison between the original Sunhokey hotbed and my MK2b hotbed (on the left):

The power wire of the resistor on my original Sunhokey hotbed have burn and damaged the plate.
MK2b is a very good alternative, and heat come munch more rapidly, i would recommend replacing the original hotbed.
My MK2b is using this time silicone insulated wires and a thermistor 3950, everything is attached with high temperature tape (Kapton).
Then i'm covering the back of the plate with styrofoam-like for heat transfer.

Bowden extruder:

Extruder with 40x40 cooling fan:

The Hotend is a ALU J-head, with a 0.4mm nozzle and a push fit pneumatic for the PTFE Tubing.
Teflon tube is for 1.75mm filament.

LCD screen control, support SD card print, using Marlin firmware:

You can get Marlin for Sunhokey 2015 here: https://github.com/rene-aguirre/Marlin
You can know your fimrware version by sending the gcode instruction: M503 to your printer.

LCD menu tree:

Motion menu relative to my printer:
Accel: 950
Vxy-jerk: 20
Vz-jerk: +000.40
Ve-jerk: 5
Vmax x: 100
Vmax y: 100
Vmax z: 5
Vmax e: 50
Vmin: 0
Vtrav min: 0
Amax x: 5000
Amax y: 5000
Amax z: 90
Amax e: 10000
A-retract: 950
Xsteps/mm: +080.50
Ysteps/mm: +080.50
Zsteps/mm: +0405.6
Esteps/mm: +0080.5

Temperature menu:
Min: 210
Max: 250
Fact: 000.10
PID-P: +022.20
PID-I: +001.08
PID-D: +114.00
PID-C: 1

MKS motherboard:

You can get the schematic here: https://github.com/makerbase-mks/MKS-GEN (mks_gen_sch.pdf)

Hardware connect:

A Sunhokey 3D Printer owner on thinginverse reported that the motherboard was catching fire, i never experienced this problem.

Now for Endstops, you can know their statut (triggered or not) by sending to your printer the gcode: M119
If you are going to use an inductive sensor and a MKS Gen board, keep in mind that the board have pullup resistors (meaning you need to desolder) so check your board schematic first !
Here is a pic i took, showing where the resistors are located, R28 goes to microcontroller and R20 is pullup.
Resistors are using 0603, yes this is small, if you use hot air beware of connectors.

Picture from microscope of R20:

I would recommend using NPN DC6-36V LJ12A3-4-Z/BX 12 MM as proximity sensor, this version have built-in NPN transistor, and so all needed is to edit Marlin and add the 10k and 15k resistors on the sensor.

X axis endstop:

Adjustable X axis endstop:

Z axis endstop is also adjustable the same way.

Adjustable Y axis belt tensioner:

X Axis have also a belt tensioner.
Making maintenance operations very easy.

Maintenance tools:

CRC 41220 Multi-purpose grease (100 ml) for the trapezoidal screw (Z axis)
And to lubricate the rest: WD-40 3 in one Drip Oil (200ml) any VG 100 oil can be fine i suppose.
For cleaning the acrylic frame i'm using KFC alcohol-based hand wipes (work very well against dust !)

Steel cleaning rods for clogged nozzle:

And of course safety gloves, if you think this is optional.. wait to have a 3D printer ;)
You aren't a truly 3D printer enthusiast if you haven't burn yourself once or cut yourself while removing a print or doing maintenance stuff :)

Some even do battle wounds.

Now related to problem i encountered:

⚠ This printer don't work with Cura.
For an unknown reason cura turn off the fan, but anyway the manufacturer configuration is established with Repetier.

🔥 Original hotbed have burn
As i explained the hotbed is lame, and must be changed.

Apart that i don't really have negative critics about it, only improvement ideas.
If you want some:
- Add another cooling fan
- Changing the acrylic for a metal frame or at least the hotbed...

Read more

Just finished to unlock my Playstation 1 to run demos, here is some pics of the motherboard.

« I'm making a note here: huge success »

This is my new soldering station, the Saike 909D, with hot air gun, voltmeter and lab bench power supply feature, i bought it on aliexpress for 135$
It's also Hakko compatible.

The lamp i use is a Innori CV-100, a very nice LED lamp, with different lighting mode, very usefull and give a clear view when manipuling a PCB.

So i made my UV exposure box from an old HP scanner found near a dumpster.

I'm using 15W light bulbs as ballasts, with Sylvania actinic tubes.
Build video bellow:

I'm a bit bored of all theses journalists/media claiming the 'lock' icon is a good valor to know if you are browsing a legitimate site or not.

I received a mail like one hour ago from EDF:

Obviously this is a phishing message but.. if we click on the link provided we go here:

This site have a valid SSL certificate:

Next step of the scam: attach your personal documents:

Some people fallen on this scam and uploaded their identity cards, passports, driver license and even their bank informations.

Their scam is well coded.. oh wait..

And the hacker responsible for this is drotanique8@gmail.com

Stop teasing us with your 'lock' stuff, SSL mean nothing and can be terribly insecure.

Some fun:

I've tried to get some pictures of NOAA sats today, the conditions wasn't really good but anyway...
Here is my setup, on a high point of my town.

My talkie-walkie, is a Baofeng GT-3 MARK II, I'm using a 3.5mm stereo jack to 2.5mm stereo jack for recoding to my PC (the GT-3 mic entry is on 2.5..)

Closeup on my yagi, it's a dual band antenna 70cm 2 m 2+2 elements made of aluminium, perfect for portable operation :)
4,12dBd on 2m
5,4dBd on 70cm

Pigtail coaxial cable BNC male to N female with a SMA Female to N male adaptor:

Receiving wasn't really good today (as well as my manual tracking)

NOAA18:

NOAA 15:

If you want to hear the sound of a weather satellite i've saved NOAA 18: https://soundcloud.com/temari/noaa-18-ch-1-4-northbound-30-w-at-2014-09-04-1602-utc

Just a thought for my hackerspace, click the picture ;)

Beside my technology background, i'm also a street artist.
I'm working mostly with american USPS stickers as support.

I've munch more prods on my DeviantArt profile but it's another game.