Back of ACLogic:

Make sure you assembly from the correct side:)

Solder the atmega(expand)

Microelectronic stuff:

• atmega328p
• 22pf cap x2
• 16Mhz Crystal

Axial Components:

• 4.7KOhm Resistos x13
• 10ohm x1
• 1MOhm x1
• 120kOhm x3
• 3kOhm 1x
• 22k 1x
• 5.1v Zener x2

Transistors and Fets:

• MPSA42 x1
• Tip 120 x1
• IRF640 x1

Surge Suppression:

• 150v 15J MOV

Front of AC Logic:

Axial Components:

4.7kOhm x3

22kOhm x1

330KOhm x2

Capacitors

.22uf x3

Voltage regulator:

L78L33 x1

PIn headers:

2pin male x1

5x2 female x2

12x2 female x1

5x1 female x1

Leds:

Green X4

Red x2

Rectifier:

Axial Components:

Were going to start with the polarized components theses only function in the correct orientation. The way to determine the way the go is simple, look for the band around the diode in theses case it is black. Match the band the the symbol on the pcb that also shows a band.

D4 and D5 are Zener diodes theses controls the final voltage that the regulator circuit puts out if you get above 5.1v here is where you want to look for bad solder joints, or components the wrong way around.

Now components without orientation, they can be placed ether direction. R22 is a 10 ohm resistor that forms an RC filter with C2. Basically it cleans up some of the noise the regulator can toss out.

If you get no voltage at all out of the regulator this is a good component to check. ITs the final components before the voltage gets to the zeners and to the rest of the controller.

This zerocross detection circuit, R15 is a 1 mega ohm resistor, again orientation dosen't matter here ether direction will work.

If you get random dimming look no further than this resistor. Note: you might want to double check this components because if you put the wrong component here you can fry the micro controller.

R3-14 are 4.7 killo ohm resistors theses connect the atmega to the SCR board. Don't forget R16 this is used to pull the reset bit high so the micro will turn on.

If your micro is nto doing anything look at R16. If you have a broken channel with and channel indicator led that is not lit look here.

Theses are another critical set of resistors these setup the biasing of the transistors in the regulator. R17 R18 & R29 are 120 killo Ohm resistors.

Theses are another critical set of resistors these setup the biasing of the transistors in the regulator. R19 is a 3 killo ohm resistor

Theses are another critical set of resistors these setup the biasing of the transistors in the regulator. R21 is a 22 killo ohm resistor.

This is a .22uf capacitor, this is non polerized ceramic so it can go ether direction. This helps controle the clipping voltage of the main fet.

C3 and C4 are small .22pf theses are not the same as the perviose step. Theses capacitors setup the imedance for the 16mhz crystal.

This is another place to look if the micro seams dead.

X1 is a 16mhz crystal the clocks the micro, if you have a 3 pin ceramic resonator you can also use it here but you need to exclude C3 and C4 if you do.

This is another place to look if the micro seams dead.

Q1 is a high voltage npn transistor, in this case its a mpsa42. Carefully bend the pins outword so they can fit into board. Push the component in until snug its fine if you can still see the pins of this transistor on the top side , idelay you dotn want to have this transistor flush with the pcb makes it hard to replace if something goes wrong with it.

Q3 is a lower voltage npn tranistor Tip120. When installing this transistor make sure to bend the pins flat with the body as show in the picture.

This npn functions as a current limiter so we don't get a huge rush of current when the voltage thresh hold of the fet is reached.

Q2 this is a N-Channel fet, when installing this transistor make sure to bend the pins flat with the body as show in the picture, this transistor shoudl fit flat over the top of the resistors.

Here is the main fet the switchs the AC wave at the correct time so that we only get a small voltage rather than the full 120V.

Another component that goes over the top of a resistor. C2 is a large 1000uf capacitor that needs to be 16v or larger.Again this foldes over the top of other components in this case the the diodes and resistors. This cap makes up the other half of the RC circuit we started to put together with R22.

SKIP THIS STEP TILL LAST. Regulator on other side and caps need to be soldered first.

Here is the NRF module use the correct holes for your chosen modules. The pa module shown here goes int he connector closes to the edge, while the small nrf module goes in the Higher set of pins(second pic). DO NOT USE A SOCKET/HEADER Just solder the the nrf in.

This is the isp header to do the initial flashing of the atmega this is optional you dont need it if you got a pre-flashed micro.

This is the MOV it provides some basic surge supression.

Front of ACLogic:

More resistors these are just to keep led current to a reasonable level. R27 R29 R30 are all 4.7 killo ohm resistors.

R28 is again used to keep led current down. 22 killo ohms for this one.

Green indicator leds D1 D2 (near fuse holder) D6 D7(at the top right.) Leds are polarized you need to get them the right way around, look at the symbol on the pcb it shows a circle with a flat side. Match that flat edge to the flat edge on the led.

These can be green as well but I like to make them ether red or blue for some contrast.