My PCB prototypes arrived today, and I went straight to test them. They generally seem to work!

A day or two after I ordered the PCBs, I noticed that I had used a 6.3V-tolerant capacitor across Vbat and ground. Since the Baofeng uses a 2-cell lithium ion battery, max battery voltage is around 8.4V. Whoops. So, before testing, I desoldered this capacitor.

I did some basic continuity tests, checked the polarity of the diodes, and then applied 5V across the 5V/GND pins on the programming header and checked Vcc. This read 3.57V -- higher than the 3.3V spec, but within the absolute maximum rating of the ESP32. (Once I soldered the ESP32 on, which provided a load for the power supply, this dropped to 3.31V -- much better.)

I did some voltage checks on the programming header to make sure I wasn't going to blow up my wESP32-Prog, then plugged in the programmer and flashed the ESP-IDF Hello World app. This worked, though I had to keep constant torque on the pins to get good contact. The wESP32 has staggered pins for its programming header, which gives a friction fit for the wESP32-Prog. I had meant to do this, but didn't get around to it before ordering.

Things to change for revision 2:

• The slot where the clip is supposed to nestle needs to be a tiny bit wider -- I'm not getting much engagement on it.
• The slot for the clip also needs to be moved -- it's too far from the top of the board, so once the ESP32 is soldered on, the clip doesn't reach it. This will probably mean moving the programming header to the other side of the slot. This ought to be more convenient anyway, as it would allow the board to be programmed while attached to the back of the radio.
• Remove or change the part number for the Vbat bypass capacitor to something that can tolerate 8.4V
• Possibly replace the entire power supply with a circuit that has lower quiescent current.
• Stagger the programming header pins, to allow wESP32-prog to friction fit.
• Labels on the PCB for the different headers. At the moment I need to reference the schematic and this handy page to figure out which headset wire needs to go to which pin.
• Some sort of strain relief for the headset cable -- possibly just a pair of ~2mm holes to weave it through.