Build Instructions

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• 1

  3D Printing

  Print all the parts according to 3d-printing-assembly.pdf file.
  The resolution of the print is depends on your available time. The finer you print the better it gets and less sanding at the end.

• 2

  Gluing, Filling and Sanding

  To glue the main parts I user 3M Scotch Gel Glue (like this)
  I found that its viscosity and cure time was perfect for the job, but if you can find something like this it can work too.
  I've glued 2 parts each time and put dumbbells weights on them until the glue cured.

  After all the parts were glues together the parts had small gaps between them that were need to be filled.
  I've used 3M bondo plastic metal 901 (like this). It has short curing time so I work in small parts quickly.
  When all the gaps were filled I've send it to make it flush with the printed part.

  The third part was to spray paint all the assembled part with filling primer so it can fill all the 3D printed gaps (Rust-Oleum, Gray, GrayRust-Oleum)
  Now the main sanding work starts, the entire surface of the lamp was needed to be sand with find grade.
  Once the surface is clean and smooth you can paint it. I've used silver color to match the reference I saw but you can choose any color you like.
  
  

• 3

  LED Strip Assembly & Wiring

  I had a carton tube (O.D 54mm, I.D: 44mm, Height: 1m).
  The LED strip was wrapped around the tube and at the two ends I drilled holes so the wires can go through.

  The LED strip is 5v and can draw up to 18A! so you need a powerful power supply.
  To avoid (or at least minimize) the color change across the strip due to voltage drop you need to inject the power in both sides of the strip and it will be useful to do it also in the middle of it. This will keep the color even throughout all the strip length.
  

  Now it is just simply wire it to the ESP32 and the power source directly like in the picture:

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