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1Print the enclosure.
Print the enclosure parts (see Files section), cleaning up the holes on the bottom surface of the body so that a washer and screw head sit below flush from the surface (the flat side will be placed flat against the underside of the desk).
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2Remove and open the control panel.
Unscrew the control panel from your desk.
Open up the control panel case using a dremel, pliers, cutters, and/or a screwdriver as needed and remove the flexible button PCB. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE PCB! It is only slightly below the control panel case you'll be cutting. IKEA sent me a spare, but shipping takes a while.
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3Solder the boards.
Solder the two boards shown below (What I call the "main PCB" in the video is on top, and the "button PCB" is on the bottom; I realize they aren't technically PCBs, I just want to remain consistent with the video's phrasing). Be sure to add headers underneath the pins of the Nano; don't solder the Nano directly to the board (it makes replacement easier later, if necessary).
The main PCB has 24 columns, 18 rows. The button PCB has 28 columns, 6 rows. All resistors are 220 Ohm. You will have to drill out one of the holes to fit the negative lead of the power jack. After drilling, bend it over and solder it to a nearby hole for structural support.
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4Upload the code.
Upload the code to the Nano (see Files section) and install it onto the main PCB.
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5Add the desk PCB holddown.
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6Install the nuts.
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7Add desk PCB jumper wires.
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8Install desk PCB.
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9Install standoffs.
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10Add button PCB jumper wires.
Attach five jumper wires to the main PCB header facing the button PCB and bend them into a U. The insulated portions of mine were about 22mm long (again, leave extra to plug into the headers).
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