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CK Fittings, PE Tube, new Printhead and other Improvements

A project log for CIJ Printer

An Open Source Continuous Inkjet Printer

dominik-meffertDominik Meffert 10/08/2024 at 04:540 Comments

Latest Video of the Printer:

New Tubes and Fittings

For the past months while working on the test stand and code for the ESP32, I did not use the printer prototype, and while it was standing there, some of the fittings got leaky.

Leaky T Fitting

Until now, it wasn't that big of a deal that the fitting's NBR seals got dissolved by the ethanol over time, because I changed the prototype's design over and over again, and with it the fittings, but after a lot of testing I thought that most parts of the current design were working reliable enough to keep them this way so that it was finally worth it to replace the push-in fittings with a more suitable type of fitting.

A better option than the pneumatic push-in fittings are CK fittings (sometimes also called rapid screw fittings), which don't have a seal that can get leaky but instead use the tube itself as the seal by clamping it between the two halves of the fitting.

Since I had to replace every fitting connection on the printer, I also wanted to replace the currently used PU tubes with PE tubes, which in contrast to the PU tubes, are suitable for long-time exposure to ethanol because of their better chemical resistance.

CK Fitting with PE Tube

No more Watercooling

While I was replacing the fittings and tubes, I also thought about replacing the water cooler with an air cooler, so I could get rid of the water cooling pump, radiator, reservoir bottle, and tubes to end up with more space for other parts and less cost and complexity.

Until now, the water cooler was used to get rid of the heat of the Peltier module when it's used for cooling the ink. 

The Peltier module can be used for heating or cooling the ink depending on the room temperature to always keep the ink on a reference temperature of around 25⁰C for viscosity measurement.

The ink's viscosity changes with temperature even if the ink mixture stays the same, so it's necessary to always measure the viscosity at the same temperature to be certain that changes in the viscosity reading also represent changes in the ink mixture.

To keep the viscosity constant during printing, the printer can add more ethanol to the mix to compensate for the evaporation of ethanol, which would otherwise lead to an increase in the ink's viscosity.

As long as the room temperature doesn't exceed 25⁰C by a lot there wouldn't be much heat to dissipate, so I think the cooling can be handled by an air cooler as well for the most time of the year.

So, I replaced the water cooler with an air cooler.

Air Cooler, old Heat Exchanger, and old Pump

New Flushing Concept

A while ago I added a flush valve and flush line to the printhead that could be used for flushing the nozzle and gutter line with ink for cleaning.

Old Flush Valve and Flush Line

It turned out that this wasn't the best idea because the ink would harden inside the tubes when the printer is not used for some time and when I recently ended up with clogged lines that I had to replace, I decided to change the printer design in a way that makes it possible to draw all ink from the nozzle and gutter line via vacuum and then flush these lines with ethanol without adding unwanted ethanol to the ink tank.

To do so, I added two valves to the output of the return pump, which are both switched with the same relay. The valve that leads to the ink tank is connected to the normally closed pin and the valve that leads to the flush bottle is connected to the normally open pin so that the ink flows into the ink tank until the flush line function is activated which switches the relay so that the ink tank valve closes and the flush bottle valve opens.

From Bottom to the Top: Nozzle Ink Valve, Nozzle Vacuum Valve, Gutter Valve, Ink Tank Valve, Flush Bottle Valve

With this change, it's possible to flush the gutter and nozzle line into the flush bottle to prevent clogged lines and too diluted ink in the future.

Ink Tank, Solvent Bottle, and Flush Bottle

Some Footage

Here are some photos I took while replacing the fittings and tubes:

Printer with old Fittings, PU Tubes, and Water Cooler

Leak on one of the Pressure Pump's T Fittings

Replaced the 4mm Tubes on the Bottom with a 1/4" T Piece

Added a Valve for taking Ink Samples

Gutter Valve Connected via T Fitting

Old Push In-Fittings

Old Flush Valve

Watercooling Heat Exchanger and Ink Heat Exchanger with old Fittings

Viscosimeter Polycarbonate Pipe with Compression Fittings

New Air Cooler

Printer with Flush Bottle, new Valves and Aircooler

Pump with 8mm CK Fitting

4mm PU Tubes replaced with 4mm PE Tubes

Tubes connected with 4mm M5 CK Fittings

8mm CK Fitting on the Tank and 4mm PE Tubes

Ink Tank with 4mm CK Fittings

Circulation Line with CK T Piece and CK Fitting on the Conductivity Sensor's T Piece

Old 8mm Push In Fittings

New 8mm CK Fitting and old 4mm Push Fitting on the Ink Tank

T Piece with the old Flush Valve removed and old 8mm Fitting

Old 1/8" 8mm Push-In Fittings on the Ink Heat Exchanger

Replacing PU with PE Tube and Push-In Fittings with CK Fittings

All Push-In Fittings were replaced with CK Fittings

New CK Fittings on the Tank with 8mm going into the Circulation Pump and 4mm going into the Pressure Pumps

New 1/8" 8mm CK Fittings on the Heat Exchanger

Backside with the PU Tubes replaced by PE Tubes

Pressure Pump Lines were kept as they are because while they are working ok, this Part is still not perfect and will likely change at some Point

Printer with new Lines and Fittings

Working on a new Printhead

With the improved printer, it is now possible to focus on the printhead and charging component without the constant need to repair parts of the ink management component before every test.

New Printhead

I started building a new printhead, this time leaving the piezo transducer in one piece for using the piezo ring stack as it is intended to be used. My idea is that it could transfer the vibration better to the ink stream with the two piezo rings and the metal body. I think that with the last design, a lot of the vibration got dampened because of the more flexible plastic body. The new design will likely be more efficient, so it should be able to break the ink stream into drops even with a lower voltage since the piezo transducer is quite oversized for the task (Normally, the piezo rings used for that are much smaller, while using a higher voltage).

M10 Thread on the Ultrasonic Transducer, 1/8" on the Fitting with an inner M6 Thread. The 1/8" can be screwed into the M10 Fitting, because they have a similar Size. One Coupler Fitting and two 1/4" to 1/8" Fittings
Ground down 3D Printer Nozzles inside the rear and front Fitting, which act as Stoppes inside the Thread. The M6 Screws can be screwed against it to put pressure on the PTFE Tape that seals the Connection.
The rear Fitting is sealed with a M6 Grub Screw and the front Fitting holds a 0.1mm M6 Sapphire Nozzle.
0.1mm Sapphire Nozzle with M6 Thread
The Sapphire Nozzle inside the Fitting
4mm M5 CK Fitting for the Ink Line connected to the Coupling Fitting and bent 4mm Copper Pipe as Gutter Tube
LED Strip as Strobe Light to make the Ink Drops visible
The long LED Strip makes the Ink Drops visible across the whole Length of the Printhead
Ink Drops visible up to the Gutter Pipe
LED Strip placed inside the Slot of the Aluminum Profile
Ink Drops visible
Printhead with Charge Electrode
Charge Electrode made from a 1/4 Plug Fitting
Breakup Point inside Charge Electrode

While testing to drive the piezo with a 40kHz sine wave at 12V with a small audio amplifier, I noticed that I had to reduce the amplification quite a lot to shift the breakup point away from the nozzle towards the charge electrode, so it seems like at least this part is working better, now.

With a way to make finer adjustments on the amplification and a way to control the amplification via software, it would be possible to move the breakup point back and forth over the distance between the nozzle and the gutter. This could be used to auto-tune the amplification to get the best charging result.

Currently, I'm doing this manually by changing the amplification while looking at the charge electrode to move the breakup point into the charge electrode.

After testing out how adjusting the piezo vibration strength changes the breakup distance, the next thing I want to test is how changing the piezo frequency changes the look of the stream breakup.

Ultimately, I want to find out how I can do a reliable Time of Flight test for measuring the ink stream velocity, which would be very useful since it depends on pressure, viscosity, and nozzle diameter and has to fit the used piezo frequency.

Thanks for reading :)

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