For the past months while working on the test stand and code for the ESP32, I did not use the printer prototype, and while it was standing there, some of the fittings got leaky.
Until now, it wasn't that big of a deal that the fitting's NBR seals got dissolved by the ethanol over time, because I changed the prototype's design over and over again, and with it the fittings, but after a lot of testing I thought that most parts of the current design were working reliable enough to keep them this way so that it was finally worth it to replace the push-in fittings with a more suitable type of fitting.
A better option than the pneumatic push-in fittings are CK fittings (sometimes also called rapid screw fittings), which don't have a seal that can get leaky but instead use the tube itself as the seal by clamping it between the two halves of the fitting.
Since I had to replace every fitting connection on the printer, I also wanted to replace the currently used PU tubes with PE tubes, which in contrast to the PU tubes, are suitable for long-time exposure to ethanol because of their better chemical resistance.
From Bottom to the Top: Nozzle Ink Valve, Nozzle Vacuum Valve, Gutter Valve, Ink Tank Valve, Flush Bottle Valve
With this change, it's possible to flush the gutter and nozzle line into the flush bottle to prevent clogged lines and too diluted ink in the future.
Ink Tank, Solvent Bottle, and Flush Bottle
Some Footage
Here are some photos I took while replacing the fittings and tubes:
Printer with old Fittings, PU Tubes, and Water CoolerLeak on one of the Pressure Pump's T FittingsReplaced the 4mm Tubes on the Bottom with a 1/4" T PieceAdded a Valve for taking Ink SamplesGutter Valve Connected via T FittingOld Push In-FittingsOld Flush ValveWatercooling Heat Exchanger and Ink Heat Exchanger with old FittingsViscosimeter Polycarbonate Pipe with Compression FittingsNew Air CoolerPrinter with Flush Bottle, new Valves and AircoolerPump with 8mm CK Fitting4mm PU Tubes replaced with 4mm PE TubesTubes connected with 4mm M5 CK Fittings8mm CK Fitting on the Tank and 4mm PE TubesInk Tank with 4mm CK FittingsCirculation Line with CK T Piece and CK Fitting on the Conductivity Sensor's T PieceOld 8mm Push In FittingsNew 8mm CK Fitting and old 4mm Push Fitting on the Ink TankT Piece with the old Flush Valve removed and old 8mm FittingOld 1/8" 8mm Push-In Fittings on the Ink Heat ExchangerReplacing PU with PE Tube and Push-In Fittings with CK FittingsAll Push-In Fittings were replaced with CK FittingsNew CK Fittings on the Tank with 8mm going into the Circulation Pump and 4mm going into the Pressure PumpsNew 1/8" 8mm CK Fittings on the Heat ExchangerBackside with the PU Tubes replaced by PE TubesPressure Pump Lines were kept as they are because while they are working ok, this Part is still not perfect and will likely change at some PointPrinter with new Lines and Fittings
Working on a new Printhead
With the improved printer, it is now possible to focus on the printhead and charging component without the constant need to repair parts of the ink management component before every test.
New Printhead
I started building a new printhead, this time leaving the piezo transducer in one piece for using the piezo ring stack as it is intended to be used. My idea is that it could transfer the vibration better to the ink stream with the two piezo rings and the metal body. I think that with the last design, a lot of the vibration got dampened because of the more flexible plastic body. The new design will likely be more efficient, so it should be able to break the ink stream into drops even with a lower voltage since the piezo transducer is quite oversized for the task (Normally, the piezo rings used for that are much smaller, while using a higher voltage).
M10 Thread on the Ultrasonic Transducer, 1/8" on the Fitting with an inner M6 Thread. The 1/8" can be screwed into the M10 Fitting, because they have a similar Size. One Coupler Fitting and two 1/4" to 1/8" FittingsGround down 3D Printer Nozzles inside the rear and front Fitting, which act as Stoppes inside the Thread. The M6 Screws can be screwed against it to put pressure on the PTFE Tape that seals the Connection. The rear Fitting is sealed with a M6 Grub Screw and the front Fitting holds a 0.1mm M6 Sapphire Nozzle.0.1mm Sapphire Nozzle with M6 ThreadThe Sapphire Nozzle inside the Fitting4mm M5 CK Fitting for the Ink Line connected to the Coupling Fitting and bent 4mm Copper Pipe as Gutter TubeLED Strip as Strobe Light to make the Ink Drops visibleThe long LED Strip makes the Ink Drops visible across the whole Length of the PrintheadInk Drops visible up to the Gutter PipeLED Strip placed inside the Slot of the Aluminum ProfileInk Drops visiblePrinthead with Charge ElectrodeCharge Electrode made from a 1/4 Plug Fitting Breakup Point inside Charge Electrode
While testing to drive the piezo with a 40kHz sine wave at 12V with a small audio amplifier, I noticed that I had to reduce the amplification quite a lot to shift the breakup point away from the nozzle towards the charge electrode, so it seems like at least this part is working better, now.
With a way to make finer adjustments on the amplification and a way to control the amplification via software, it would be possible to move the breakup point back and forth over the distance between the nozzle and the gutter. This could be used to auto-tune the amplification to get the best charging result.
Currently, I'm doing this manually by changing the amplification while looking at the charge electrode to move the breakup point into the charge electrode.
After testing out how adjusting the piezo vibration strength changes the breakup distance, the next thing I want to test is how changing the piezo frequency changes the look of the stream breakup.
Ultimately, I want to find out how I can do a reliable Time of Flight test for measuring the ink stream velocity, which would be very useful since it depends on pressure, viscosity, and nozzle diameter and has to fit the used piezo frequency.
Discussions
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