The PrintrBot is done at about 19" * 6" j* 6" for now. I have moved to another build of sorts w/ the Recore A7 and a Monoprice Maker Select Plus printer. Things are working w/ five steppers, a couple enhancements on the build from the older hardware, and it is way faster than the older model PrintrBot 1403.

So, w/out further ado, I would like to post my build if you are indeed for a controller and need a jump start...

https://github.com/silver2row/Recore_Klipper_Configs.git is my github.com account w/ repo for the A6 on the PrintrBot and the Recore A7 on the Maker Select Plus 3D Printer.

Enjoy and share if noteworthy... I have been printing w/ PETG at a fast pace for sometime now. I like the extra build space and how this mostly metal printer is put together. Tough, sturdy, and full of issues. Got to fix it again...bbl!

Here is a small update. The printer, PrintrBot 1403 Simple Metal, has been partially upgraded. It can now print 19.75" * 6" * 6" or roughly 500mm * 152mm * 152mm. I am still working on the Y_Axis, i.e. as it needs to be equipped to handle the bed build environment.

So, the (19.75" ^ 2) and the Z_axis at around 6" is well in the realm of something I have not done before this time. Large build area on X and Y and something simple for Z. I have an either Capacitive Probe or Inductive Probe handling the homing and Klipper configs for the Z_Axis. Klipper is really some nice source for being able to print large build areas w/ large perimeters. 

Although this older printer is very slow and nonmobile at the moment, it can print and to the extent in which I described earlier. I have learned some caveats of the Klipper firmware which has made printing on this printer and others very precise. I have actually been very surprised w/ the assistance of the Klipper people on their discourse and their knowledge of the docs, 3D Printing in general w/ specifics, and all around good service has helped me become more docile when enraged at my lack of understanding.

Okay. So, this is another attempt I have made to incorporate a Monoprice Maker Select Plus w/ Recore A7 controller into a full blown Klipper firmware enabled printer. It is faster than my 1403, e.g. travel and print speeds. It has a larger build environment which has enabled me to print hard to touch prints at such speeds. Now, I am sure there are more able printers w/ better do-dads and gadgets at higher expenses. I am not disregarding this fact. Both printers for me so far are much fun to the point I actually have built them up and outward in parts and so on. 

I reached out to the Slice Engineering and Swiss-Micro. Both companies if not the same have had parts where I can basically tear down my printer, exchange matching parts, and switch some firmware sections in the configs, print, and then enjoy a relaxing beverage. 

Also...

I went and broke some dear parts from Slice Engineering. I contacted them about it. I was not in the mood nor the market to get reimbursed or gyp the system. I wanted them to understand the complexity of my issue as it pertained to their parts. All in all, they listened and sent warm regards. Luckily, I ordered two of the throat-hotend-MK10 attached parts. 

The MK10 seemed to be a popular make and model. Not so much from what I can tell. I have been savagely researching  more and more USA MFG. in 3D Printing, smaller part manufacturing, that tends to learn towards what I have already purchased. Inevitably, I have found Slice and Swiss to handle most of what I already do. 

Outside of those two companies, I found COEX3D. It seems they mfg, here in the states, filament and have access to an older Dupont filament of choice called Hytrel. Anyway, I do not normally handle such rubbery materials, i.e. as I print for rigidness while having a longer-lasting effect to the entire finished part.

For instance, four to six bottom layers, a 45% infill w/ lines, and four to six top layers. Sometimes I double up on walls also. 

Reasoning have you, I just like my completed parts to not shatter when dropped or bend under low inertia. 

For instance, I build this Quadruped. I used PETG on my 1403. The Recore A6 did its part and the machine held together well enough for completing a few extra, large prints. 

As soon, as soon, as soon as I put the threaded inserts in the holes, something was amidst that pertained to the way to goo of extruded filament had run throughout the holes in the threaded inserts. I knew trouble was lurking soon...

And would you not know it? As soon as I performed the install of the parts, crack-bend-crystalized_shattering. 

Angry. Sort of. Knowing this may be my last quadruped I build with this form factor, probably. The squareness of the entire build was a big bulky and nevertheless correct. I just shot myself in the foot w/ the threaded inserts.

If you or anyone you know plans on building and manufacturing threaded inserts, make sure some if not all of them have ends w/out through hole threaded components for the ID. So, one open end and one closed end. 

This would greatly reduce the need to drill or reapply heat to thread the screw or bolt in its respective place...

Anyway...

Back to building:

The people at Monoprice made this Wanhao Controller board into a pretty excellent printer. For some reason, unbeknown to me, I get heat dissipation at an expensive rate while traveling on this printer w/ the Moons' Stepping Motor(s), i.e. especially the extruder motor. 

I think there must be a Klipper setting for rotation_distance that needs altering to better adjust for the multi-toothed hob on my extruder stepper.

So, me-me-me, my-my-my, what about you-you-you?

Does Klipper help w/ your printing comparing it to other firmware? Is the AR100 a Quad obsessed speed freak from another level? 

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I found some nice 3D Printing details online recently and I thought why not share?

So, I went to Ultimate 3D Printing Materials Guide | Simplify3D for a guide on filament types, how to use them w/ or w/out a heated bed, and what is available in print quality these days.

So, I looked around and found their site. Expensive and not open source. I know but they provide some info. on ideas like some other sites out in userland. 

Also, I found another site that has tons of information on 3D Printing, some general and some specific. Here: Gaps in 3D Prints: How to Fix & Avoid Them | All3DP is a page on their site that handles gaps in extruded plastics on the print bed. It basically shows some ideas on how to alleviate the issues of sparse lines and actually, they are saying that it may have something to do w/ the Z-offset. Interesting.

...

The finished project was better than okay but not to my liking, i.e. so! I will have to print again with CURA as the slicer but this time, there will be some options discarded and some new ones picked.

and...THE FINISHED PRODUCT!