Here you can either use the cut-off from the previous step and solder it to the inboard switch's terminal (opposite the diode's stripe) or you can make a short length of wire with a (F) female spade terminal to match the PCB spade (M) male. In either case be careful of the wire routing and make sure its clear of the mechanism and preferably locked into one of the wiring channels in the unit's lower cover or around one of the screw posts.

Using a small screwdriver, compress the spring a little and insert the angular side of the stainless rod in the opening. Rotate it into place when it reaches the back. It should now stay there.

Push the 3D printed assembly onto the two screw posts in the lower shell. If you push it down firmly the top of the printed part should be flush with the screw posts. This is very important as any extra height here will allow water into the unit due to it not being able to close up properly. There's a chance the diode under the angled switch (outboard side) may be stuck. If so, bend it out of the way or re-solder it out of the way. Do not force anything. Everything should be a tight but good fit and not require more pressure than you would exert on a pack of butter.

This should be clicked onto the servo's rod which is closest to the 3D printed unit. It may require a bit of pressure. Check that it clears the support post that the control board rests on. You should not need to file this away. Also check that it does not hit the diode or wires. Wiggle it side to side. It should hit the plastic housing and not be able to make contact with any bare wires without bending the rod out of shape. If you don't trust it you can add some heat shrink tube to protect the offending place (tip source: Danny Midlack).

Now you can test the unit by connecting a 12V power source (a 9V battery might work). If you connect the + to the wire going from the inboard switch to the PCB and the minus to the motor's - (black) wire the unit should begin to move and stop moving before it hits the end of its travel. Switch the + and - supply around and the unit should now move the other way until it stops short of the end.

In the center of travel reversing the voltage reverses the movement. The switches in this range are simply shorting out their respective diodes and everything is exactly as it was.

As soon as either switch is actuated it opens its contacts and puts its diode into the circuit. This diode immediately blocks the power until power is reversed. A diode only blocks power one way thus allowing the actuator to move back into the normal zone but not allowing it to continue into the danger zone.

Note that both switches are set up so that there's a small distance for the carriage to roll to a stop after power is cut. A fully charged battery may generate quite a bit of "coasting" so some extra space is reserved for this.

1. Replace the controller PCB and check all its connectors are seated properly.
2. Check again that there are no pinched wires and that everything can move freely.
3. replace the watertight seal, clean and grease this with silicone grease if needed.
4. Replace the top cover
5. turn over and tighten the screws hand tight.
6. Go sailing!