"Morse Quest" is a minimalist text adventure game built on an Arduino Nano platform, where all interactions take place using Morse code.
The game communicates with the player through a blinking LED that outputs messages in Morse code. Players must decipher these blinks into text, unraveling the storyline, clues, and challenges the game presents. In turn, players respond by pressing a button to input their Morse-coded commands, which the Arduino Nano interprets and processes to advance the game. The algorithm interpreting the inputs is fully adaptive to the players input speed and does not rely on hardcoded thresholds. Powered by a 9V battery, the system is fully portable.
Players can adjust the blinking speed of the LED with a potentiometer to match their comfort level, making the game accessible to both beginners and seasoned Morse code enthusiasts.
The original story is called "The Abandoned Farmhouse Adventure" by Jeff Tranter.
Details
Files
body.stl
Standard Tesselated Geometry -
126.06 kB -
08/31/2024 at 08:16
After you started, the game begins and the LED will blink, so you need to start decoding. You can vary the output speed by changing the value of the potentiometer. GL & HF!
I uploaded the code to an openCwKeyer Mk2. I just changed the pin numbers:
buttonPin=2
ledPin=4
analogPin=A0
and inverted the button, because in the openkeyer, the key pulls the pin to ground.
This way I can use my straight key and the code is sent with the buzzer of the keyer. I understand that it is nice to have a silent device, but to really learn the code, it has to be a tone. Additionally I added a few characters: . , - ?!
I noticed, that the timing is not correct. A dash should be 3 times a dot, the inter-character space should be equal to a dot, the space between letters should be 3x dot, and space between words should be 7x a dot. Therefore I changed to:
I’ve decided to put this into a mint tin and to include an on/off switch. I put the Nano onto a miniature breadboard so I can use the button on the tin box, or attach a straight key as the input device. I did notice on the wiring diagram that there is no 9v battery connection listed. That would be on the VIN and GND pins.
I really appreciate your comment, thanks! The switch I am using is cheap but also hurts the fingers if used too long, a straight key is certainly more comfortable.
I uploaded the code to an openCwKeyer Mk2. I just changed the pin numbers:
buttonPin=2
ledPin=4
analogPin=A0
and inverted the button, because in the openkeyer, the key pulls the pin to ground.
This way I can use my straight key and the code is sent with the buzzer of the keyer. I understand that it is nice to have a silent device, but to really learn the code, it has to be a tone. Additionally I added a few characters: . , - ?!