As mentioned in the previous blog, I messed up power switch 1201 when removing the power link 216 from it. See the picture below how it is installed (with the new switch already). It physically connect the button on the front panel, around the large capacitors to the power switch.

When I removed the power link 216 the first time, I pulled it off when the power switch 1201 was in the depressed state, which broke something internally.

Luckily, I could order a working spare part for this power switch 1201 through eBay as it was clearly labeled "ALPS SDL1P-D". For a couple of euros and some weeks later this was delivered and ready for installation.

Installation was easy and the weeks that I was without switch I had time to measure the parts, model them and come up with a solution to press the button that I could detect externally.

What I came up with, was 2 3D-printed parts that would snap over the power switch 1201 and the power link 216. It contains 2 micro switches (2, so the forces are equal on both sides). I've added some edges to the switch-holding side to make sure they wouldn't come out, but that was completely unnecessary and due to the forces one of the corners broke off, so I removed them later again.

When installed, it looks pretty snug. A bit too snug actually, as the right side came in contact with the transformer that is placed over there. I had to cut a corner away to make it fit, but it works perfectly. When I press the power button on the front panel, the buttons in the mechanism are triggered and it is easily removable when needed.

I've updated the mechanism with an added chamfer, but won't print them again, as it works as intended. The FreeCAD-files and .stl's can be found on Thingiverse.

Next step: understanding the remote protocol and finding an undocumented component on the Marantz PCB.