Build Instructions

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• 1

  3D Print Orientations

  Parts are labelled in the bottom left corner, Most prints are printed in the orientation they load up in, there are a couple that do need to be flipped or rotated for best results. 

  Notable exceptions are the Battery Holder, RF Cover, Cold Shoe, Shutter button, Video Record Button, Button Enclosure, Power Toggle

  Printing settings 

  Cura Print settings for my Ender 3 V2 have been uploaded to the files list 

  Material - PLA (Black)

  Supports - Enabled, Type - Breakaway, Support Overhang Angle - 45 degrees 

  Wall Thickness - 8 Lines, Bottom Layers - 8, Top Layers 8 

  Total Print time @ 200um layer heights on my Ender 3 V2 was approximately 29hrs with the print configuration using magnetic screen and button covers and cold shoe, with rangefinder faceplate other configurations will be a bit different.  
  

  If you'd like the best surface finish use your printer's best setting, mine was 120um, however parts at 200um also are very nice. The total print time is fairly high if all outer parts are done at 120um

• 2

  Removing the FED 5 Leica Thread Mount (Not Applicable on M-Mount Builds)

  This will be the first step, simply get a flat head screw driver and remove the screws on the FED 5 (they tend to be painted red so you can't miss em), before you do so though, beware there are retaining plates that the lens mount screws go into so when you remove the screws you'll probably see them drop out, don't worry we don't need them so set them aside. 

  We'll be using the removed mount in the next step to see how your printer is. 

• 3

  The Fed 5 Rangefinder Module (Close Focus adjustment) - Optional Step

  While we are on the FED 5 we might as well prep the rangefinder. If you are going to assume close focus is perfect or just don't want to bother skip this.

  I found on my builds that both Rangefinder modules were off by about 20cm to 40cm at closest focusing distances, after that things were spot on. 

  Now we aren't going to adjust it on the old FED body but I found on both my rangefinder modules the amount of initial force needed to overcome the initial friction of a Cam module that hasn't been adjusted in decades was very high. High enough that I needed to remove the module from the 3D printed body. So this is really meant to save a headache later on. 

  Before we start examine the Cam, on one of mine the amount of shellac or adhesive used to fix the Cam in place was absurd I tried to turn it and it felt like I was going to damage the Cam arm before I broke the shellac. I'd need to dissolve a bunch of it off before I give that a go. If the Cam looks like there isn't enough shellac to coat a small desk then this is worth proceeding with if you care about close focus. 
  

  Grab a set of rubber coated pliers (use a rubber band on top of the pliers if you don't have a set, I don't) and apply a constant but controlled force until you notice the Cam has rotated a bit, be careful, it is possible to break the arm or damage another part of the Rangefinder doing this. We aren't looking to adjust it now so just get it to overcome that initial friction. 

  For a detailed look at the adjustment I'd recommend reading this page. https://jay.fedka.com/index_files/Page422.htm

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