I. Unboxing

Full Kit Includes:

  • AiPi R2 Development Board ×1
  • Camera Module – CoolSight CV031C50 ×1
  • 4-inch Touch Display – UYE UE040WV ×1
  • 65dB Microphone ×1
  • 8Ω 2W Speaker ×2
  • 2× Connection Cables  

II. Environment Setup

For environment setup, refer to: Official Guide It’s already very clear, so I’ll skip repeating that and just showcase how I use AiPi for development.

  • Download VS Code (already installed on my computer).
  • Install Git (already installed). I use cmder as my terminal—gives a Linux-like experience on Windows, very handy.
  • Clone the AiPi project source code:

 

4. Add the following three paths to your system environment variables:

  • aithinker_Ai-M6X_SDK\toolchain_gcc_t-head_windows\bin
  • aithinker_Ai-M6X_SDK\tools\make
  • aithinker_Ai-M6X_SDK\tools\ninja

To verify:

  • make -v
  • riscv64-unknown-elf-gcc -v

 

5. Build Test Example: AiPi-Eyes_weather is the weather station source code. Right-click the project folder → Open in Integrated Terminal → then enter: make

III. Performance Testing

AiPi-Eyes-R2 is a 4-inch RGB display driver board designed by Ai-Thinker for the Ai-M61-32S module. The display has a resolution of 480×480 pixels, supports capacitive touch, USB camera input, and single-channel audio I/O.

The Ai-M61-32S module supports Wi-Fi 6 and BLE 5.3, with rich peripheral interfaces including: DVP, MJPEG, Display, Audio Codec, USB 2.0, SDU, Ethernet (EMAC), SD/MMC (SDH), SPI, UART, I2C, I2S, PWM, GPDAC, GPADC, ACOMP, GPIO, etc.

It integrates SPI screen interface, DVP camera interface, TF card slot, and USB port for an external USB camera. Official specs:https://docs.ai-thinker.com/eyes-r

IV. DIY Project

Here comes the fun part! Lots of images coming up, so bear with me. The AiPi R2 will serve as the control brain—it will be added last to bring it all to life. First, let’s walk through the DIY process.

DIY Full-Spectrum Aquarium Light

Inspired by the Wushuang C60 aquarium light, I built everything from scratch—including the outer casing. From LED boards to constant current drivers, I designed and made all the PCBs. Perfect for long-term tinkering! My motto: If I can get it for free, I’m not spending a dime.

Here's the planted tank to start:

  Let’s Begin

The tank is 60cm long, so the light is sized 60cm × 12cm.

  • I bought aluminum heat sink profiles.
  • The frame is made with aluminum edge strips and bonded with cast iron glue—very sturdy.
  • Water shield is made of acrylic.
  • Total shell cost: ≈¥40

 

  Full-Spectrum RGBW LEDs

Used RGBW LEDs, got free samples from a supplier.

  • Cost: ¥0

 

  Cost:¥0

  Measuring and PCB Design

Even though the reflector cup had detailed specs, I measured everything manually to avoid fitment issues. Designed aluminum-core PCBs using JLCEDA—very beginner-friendly. JLC offers 5 free samples, and I only needed 5 boards—so perfect!

  • Cost: ¥0

 HI7002 IC 

  • Used TB sign-in rewards for passive components.
  • PCB also done at JLC, total cost around ¥3

    •  Wiring the PCB Segments

    Since each LED board is 10cm × 10cm, I had to connect 5 pieces in parallel. Using regular wires would make the reflector cups sit unevenly. 

    Solution: Use JLC’s free FPC flexible cables as jumper wires.

    • Current load checked—should be fine.
    • Reflectors now fit flush to the board.
    • Cost: ¥0

       Assembly Preview

    Test-fitted the assembled boards into the custom-made casing:

    ✅ Perfect fit!

      Power-On Test

    Lit up the light for the first time:

    ✅ Perfect again!