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PEBBLE Portable Audio Recorder

Made an Unhiker M10-based Audio Recorder to record project ideas.

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Greetings everyone, and welcome back!

Meet Pebble, a tiny voice recorder designed to look and feel like an actual stone.

The idea behind this project came from a problem I kept running into: I get a ridiculous number of random project ideas throughout the day, and by the time I actually sit down to work on them, half of them are gone. So I wanted a simple little device where I could just hit a button, record an idea, and save it for later.

At the heart of Pebble is the UniHiker M10, an SBC powered by an RK3566 processor, with a built-in touchscreen, microphone, and SD card support. I built a custom power circuit around it and designed the entire enclosure from scratch, taking inspiration from the organic form of a natural stone.

At the heart of Pebble is a simple recording interface that I designed specifically for the device.

The main screen has a large recording button with a timer displayed on it. When the button is pressed, Pebble starts recording through the built-in microphone, and the timer begins counting so you can see exactly how long you've been recording.

Press the button again, and the recording stops. The audio file is then saved directly to the SD card.

But I also wanted an easy way to access the recordings without having to remove the SD card every time. Since the UniHiker M10 has Wi-Fi connectivity, Pebble can connect to the local network and host its own web interface.

The device displays its local IP address directly on the UI. Enter that IP address into a browser on another device connected to the same network, and you'll be taken to the Pebble web app.

The web app lists all the recordings stored on the SD card, and from there you can play them directly in the browser or download the audio files.

So, all the recordings stay on the SD card, while the web interface simply provides a convenient way to access and manage them over the local network.

DESIGN PROCESS

For the design, I wanted to make an enclosure that really stands out from traditional electronics enclosures. I wanted something organic and natural rather than perfectly symmetrical and boxy.

The first thing that came to mind was a stone or pebble. I really like the irregular, curved forms you find in natural stones, so I picked up a couple of stones from a nearby riverbank and started studying their shapes.

I used them as references and sketched a few forms of my own, experimenting with different curves, proportions, and silhouettes.

After a bit of tinkering with the shapes and drawings, I eventually arrived at the form I was looking for, a simple, organic shape that felt natural enough to pass as a stone while still giving me enough space to fit all the electronics inside.

3D MODEL

Once I had the form I was looking for, I imported my drawing into Fusion 360 and used it as a reference to turn the sketch into a proper CAD model.

From there, I shelled out the enclosure and split it into two halves. I then started fitting everything inside, starting with the UniHiker board, then my custom power circuit, and the lithium cell.

A lot of the work here was making sure all the components fit neatly while still keeping the original stone-like form.

After going through the usual engineering and iteration process, I ended up with a very minimal enclosure that still looks and feels like a stone, rather than a traditional electronics enclosure.

I also wanted to make sure the important ports and controls were still easily accessible without taking the enclosure apart.

On the back of Pebble, I added a small opening that gives direct access to the microSD card. This allows the card to be removed from its holder whenever I need to transfer or manage the recordings.

The USB Type-C port is positioned on the bottom of the enclosure and is used for charging the device. I also placed the power button on the bottom, keeping the controls tucked away while still making them easy to reach when needed.

This keeps the overall stone-like appearance clean while still providing access to everything needed to use and maintain the device.

3D PRINTED PARTS

Once the model was finalized, I exported the mesh files and moved on to printing both halves of the enclosure.

I printed the top and bottom parts using Hyper Grey PLA with a 0.4 mm nozzle, 0.2 mm layer height, and 25% gyroid infill. I used tree supports only where they were needed, mainly on the inside of the enclosure.

Both parts were printed with the bottom side facing the build plate. This meant the outer surfaces were facing upward, giving me a much cleaner finish on the visible top layers.

For the supports, I used a 0.3 mm Z-distance and kept four layers between the support and the actual part. This gave the supports enough...

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  • 1
    PCB ASSEMBLY
    • PCB assembly starts by applying solder paste to each SMD pad using a dispensing syringe. We’re using standard 63/37 Sn-Pb solder paste.
    • Once that’s done, each SMD component is placed in position using ESD-safe tweezers.
    • The board then goes onto a mini reflow hotplate, which heats it from below. As soon as the temperature hits around 200°C, the solder paste melts, and the components are soldered in place.
    • Next, we move on to the through-hole components, which begin by placing the push button, Type C Port, and JST Connector in their positions.
    • After placing them, we flip the PCB and solder the through-hole pads using a soldering iron.
  • 2
    POWER SOURCE

    For power, I’m using a 3.7V 600 mAh Li-Po cell, which works really well for this setup. Originally, I planned to use a 14500 3.7V 600 mAh Li-ion cell, but it wasn’t readily available, so I switched to a Li-Po instead.

    This wasn’t really a compromise, since both cells have the same nominal voltage and capacity, and the Li-Po is also considerably thinner, making it easier to fit inside the enclosure.

    The battery connects to the custom power circuit through a JST connector. To turn Pebble on, I simply press the vertical push button mounted on the circuit. The circuit then powers up, and the indicator LED lights up to show that the power system is active and providing a stable 5V output to the UniHiker M10.

  • 3
    UNIHIKER M10 & POWER CIRCUIT WIRING

    One small challenge I ran into was that the UniHiker M10 doesn’t have a dedicated 5 V or VIN input pin that I could directly use for powering the board. Since the board is normally powered through its USB Type-C port, I decided to use that existing power path instead.

    I plugged a USB Type-C cable into the UniHiker and used a multimeter to trace the PCB and find the test pads that were carrying the 5 V supply from the USB port. Once I identified the correct pads, I soldered two wires directly to them.

    These two wires were then connected to the 5 V output of my custom power circuit, effectively giving the UniHiker the same 5 V supply it would receive through the USB Type-C port.

    With everything connected, pressing the power button on the power circuit turns the system on, powering up the UniHiker and bringing the entire Pebble setup to life.

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