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• Physical Build

  Caleb Hanneman • 04/13/2017 at 13:47 • 0 comments

  I used a generic Radio Shack PCB to put everything together. The full list of these components can be found in the components section of the project.

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  The assembly of the project is pretty simple, however where it really gets complex is in the programming of the ATMGEA. I do not have an AVR programmer, I have been using a PIC kit for years. I decided to keep things simple and use an arduino to program my microcontroller. The code and the link to the library that I used can be found in the details section. To program the chip I used an Arduino UNO board as my programmer. I used this great article on how to program ATTINYs and I was able to adapt it to work with the ATMEGA 328. http://highlowtech.org/?p=1695 I also used this article on the Arduino website to program the chip. https://www.arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/ArduinoToBreadboard Simply cross deference the pin outs of each controller's programming pins and connect the Arduino UNO accordingly.

• Programming

  Caleb Hanneman • 04/04/2017 at 06:56 • 0 comments

  Each LED is tied to an if statement which is checking for different levels of humidity. As the target humidity is about to be reached, more LEDS are illuminated.

  Scale:

  1	10% Relative Humidity
  2	15% Relative Humidity
  3	20% Relative Humidity
  4	25% Relative Humidity
  5	30% Relative Humidity
  6	35% Relative Humidity
  7	40% Relative Humidity
  8	45% Relative Humidity
  9	50% Relative Humidity
  10	55% Relative Humidity

  Each different level in the chart shown above lights the corresponding number of LEDs on the LED bar graph.

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  In programming the device I used an Arduino library that can be found here: https://brainy-bits.com/blogs/tutorials/dht11-tutorial. This just makes the whole process faster and easier to read and make changes to.

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  All code can be found in the Details section of the project.

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