Netflix released the plans to make DIY Netflix socks. They used an Arduino trinket and added stuff to turn it on and charge a Lipo. I want to make it a bit simpeler/cheaper/compacter and I used a Lilypad USB that had an on-board power switch and charger.
As I watch Netflix via a Chromecast, the off-button of my remote control will be sufficient. But a friend of mine want to have a pair. As she watches via a playstation, the TV off-button will not pause her stream. So I plan to use a digispark or something similar with a IR receiver to simulate a keyboard and pause the playstation.
Files
NetflixSocks_Schematics_bb.jpg
Simplified schematic of the netflix socks, adapted for Lilypad USB.
The use of conductive stainless steel needs some more thinking through. It doesn't knot well, and needs some glue or nail polish to stay put. So see and behold, my prototype with alligator clips:
I also soldered the IR module. As I still plan to sew the whole thing together, I made hooks for the aligator clips (or wires) to grab on. It is not the nicest build, but it is functional.
I'm a bit concerned, the signal seems a bit weak for high power leds. But a test with an IR reciever and the default blink sketch gives a nice signal:
Received: OFF ON 2196 usec, 180 usec int IRsignal[] = { // ON, OFF (in 10's of microseconds) 18, 0}; Received: OFF ON 2236 usec, 120 usec int IRsignal[] = { // ON, OFF (in 10's of microseconds) 12, 0}; Received: OFF ON 2236 usec, 140 usec int IRsignal[] = { // ON, OFF (in 10's of microseconds) 14, 0};
Last night I played around with the layout of the socks. As I use diffent components than the netflix design, I can't recycle their template. As I use less components, I should have more space. But I also planned to use conductive wire for added comfort. This could be problematic, as the power wire and the ground wire should cross each other a few time. I'm thinking of using a traditional wire for the power line at the moment, and conductive wire for the other connetions. Would that be a good idea?
Also, I tested all components the last month, and ordered replacement for the components that didn't work. I made a rigid prototype on cardboard with tape and temporary glue, to transport it, that I plan to temporary wire this evening. This would make a nice project to take along withme to Hacker hotel, a hacker event in the Netherlands this weekend. I hope to work some more on the code when attending!
The original schematic from Netflix looked pretty complicated, so I spend one evening to clean it up and reproduce it in Fritzing. I removed the charging circuit and the switch, as they are already located on the Lilypad.
The original Netflix schematic
After a good night sleep I fixed some problems (it is always a good idea to check and doublecheck before starting to build something).