Build Instructions

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• 1

  Step 1

  Step 1: Disassemble and strip stuff down

  Remove three screws from the back and gently prise open the case. Then remove the one screw holding the PCB and remove all the controller buttons. Keep it all in a bag somewhere as the screws are small and easy to lose!

  Using a dremel and a set of files, remove material internal pillars and flanges as shown in the images.

  Remove the power micro-usb from the Pi zero, I also removed the camera connector to save me having any issues with it later.

  From the power boost I had to remove the LED labelled PWR, this was to make it fit in the case and I might relocate to the 5mm case LED. Alternatively route a micro USB cable through the existing case cable mount and drop the case LED completely, this would save creating a separate power opening later.

• 2

  Step 2

  Step 2: Add mounting bits

  The pit sits on the base of the controller, so material is removed from one side of the clam-shell only (see photos).

  The PowerBooster sits next to the Pi, and needs a spacer (a couple of m2 nuts and a push button worked for me) to mount it at a nice level. File back a slot in the other side of the pi case (no picture for this one I'm afraid).

  Apply a chamfer to the ports, so they 'open up' as they go into the case - this will make it easier to locate the hardware and helps with the flanges on the micro-usb port.

  Solder wires from the PowerBoost output directly to the Pi GPIO 5V and ground pins; don't bother with the included bulky USB or terminal block.

  The push button is soldered to the reset pin of the Pi (to be used in emergencies) while the small switch can be mounted to fully power on/off the Pi zero - remember to shutdown where possible to avoid SD card corruption.

  The LiPo sits in the other shell piece of the controller. It's a snug fit (tucked under the controller PCB) so make sure you have removed all traces of the internal structure it would clash with.

• 3

  Step 3

  Step 3: Assemble and test

  Taking the PCB check the traces match up to the colours below and then solder directly to the Pi. Add a blob of hot glue to act as strain relief on the wires once you have checked it all works.

  NES Pin	Wire Colour	Signal	GPIO
  1	White	Ground	Any GND
  2	Blue	Clock	GPIO10
  3	Yellow	Latch	GPIO11
  4	Brown	Data	GPIO2,3,4 or 7
  7	Red	+V	+3V3 (NOT +5V)

  Plug the LiPo in, and tape all wires safely in place with electrical tape.

  Reinstall the controller buttons and screw the controller PCB back in place, ensuring that it sits true.

  Clip the two halves together, you may need to make some adjustments to make sure no wires are trapped and the case closes without bulging. Reinstall the screws (you can drill out and use some of the unused ones if you want) and the hardware mods are done!

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