good job, however there is an alternative way for making a PCB: 

hi, can i get the .dxf files of the carriage/gantry plate? thanks

Yes, but i still dont have them with me now , lost HDD with all data, need to wait till i redo all the design,
but these designs depend on the extrusion, no two extrusion are same and there are lot of bugs in design, but the work is progressing nicely ,
i will upload all the data when all the work is complete

Found this example which has some interest to people looking at this project: 

Thanks for the video
i have found a better software/hardware solution
1. Use Kicad PCB software and use .plt or hpgl for board files
2. Convert .plt it to g code and send to machine. quality is good.

Also relevant info: I did actually try it with a DIY spin coated board and it *nearly* worked. the problem there was that the UV ink was
far more photosensitive and although it did strip the coating the timing on the developer was impossible to predict due to the unknown
thickness. For my next attempt, used a proper Bungard (tm) board and that worked well enough to etch my name and some thin tracks.
It might be worth mentioning that the UV ink was from a UK seller and was slightly out of date (exp:2015) maybe this made a difference?
The boards were from Maplins and ink looked purple rather than Bungard's off green, maybe possible to add a calibration factor using multiple LEDs and a sensor? (caution: HP may have patented this technology in 1992)

Hi Conundrum u can use a Photo-resist Dry film, this gave me perfect results with 6mils but needs to be coated with an masking tape or paint spray(requires practice and skills ) , i am testing out all other possibilities like using semitransparent polythene, glass etc. . if you have any other idea of avoiding light bleeding due to laser please help.

Marcel's setup was originally intended to etch wood, I am pretty sure his diode is a 220mW unit. I know that he ran into issues with cooling and had to add some additional failsafes to prevent the diode running with the bed stalled as this resulted in all sorts of safety issues. He also later extended the build area using parts from an old Apple Mac scanner (old school heh heh) but those burnished rods are incredibly reliable. I tried it with my photoPCB but never managed to get it to etch quite right due to the power being non adjustable.

If you would like to speak to him I am pretty sure he is in the UK at the moment, google "Body of Light"

Hi i live in india so, can you please provide me link to marcel diy machine page that also also help me in improving my desgn

Had some success with this, Marcel Lenormand built a DIY setup and apart from the well known splash effect a blue 445nm laser seems to work a bit better than a UV 395nm for this reason.

The catch is that cheap single mode single emitter 445nm diodes aren't high power, they top out around 50mW and though 150+mW diodes do exist they are typically multimode or multi-emitter (such as c@s¬o)

i am also using 100mw laser in single mode , i have already build and tested my machine and the result was satisfactory. I will soon post the videos and pic of the working and result.Can you give me link to Marcel Lenormand project?Thank you.

Hi Conundrum, thanks for the tip. manjuprasadmbasangi kindly let me join this project and although I'm well behind on laser knowledge, I thought I could add value to the community by clarifying documentation etc.  To this end, would you mind expanding on Marcel's setup? What was he etching/burning  - photosensitive pcb, marker pen on copper, marker pen on photoresist film? What about linear motion and controls? Was the machining strategy to carry out "slicing" passes such as in the video manjuprasadmbasangi says inspired his project or does Marcel's cut round the perimeter of the traces? Thanks in advance if you are able to enrich our understanding any further.

Hi I am going to release all the documentation and tutorials on how to learn and build and use. after i correct all the flaws and mistakes.
Just give me a 1 week time.