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Lift off. Now both wheels are free to turn or come off. The bike is up at a great working height and it's level, left to right. I've done hours of work with the bike up for a month with no issues. In fact here in LA (earthquake country) it's safer on the lift then kick stand.

JPEG Image - 1.23 MB - 09/09/2016 at 20:02

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Step five. Line up the female and male couplers and push the jack to meet the plate. Slide the locking pin in and you'er ready to crank.

JPEG Image - 1.09 MB - 09/09/2016 at 20:00

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Step four. Slide the jack stand up to the bike. Right the bike off it's kick stand.

JPEG Image - 1.21 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:58

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Step three. Push the plate all the way aginst the bike frame and tighten the nut in the back. This replaces the subframe nut.

JPEG Image - 1.13 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:55

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Step two. Line up the peg and 22mm socket to the frame holes

JPEG Image - 1.18 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:54

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Step one of mounting the bike. I remove the bolt to the subframe.

JPEG Image - 1.14 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:53

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The final photo of the build. Next I'll show how it works

JPEG Image - 1.04 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:49

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The last part of the build was adjustable feet to leave the stand. I drilled a hole at the ends of the tubes and welded a stand off nut. The head of the bolt faces up so the bolt tip sits on the ground. I then 3d printed wing nut style handles that fit the bolt hex head like a socket. Yellow of corse. Paint the metal black and done.

JPEG Image - 1.16 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:42

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Sorry, I didn't take a photo of the part that holds the plate to the stand. The female side was welded to the jack and the male was welded to the back of the plate.

JPEG Image - 1.24 MB - 09/09/2016 at 19:39

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Last was to clean, weld, cut, grind and paint. Welding was not hard but needed to be right. This part is taking 400 lb, I leave my bike up on the stand for days and I don't want this to brake off.

JPEG Image - 1.20 MB - 09/08/2016 at 19:40

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This pic shows a .375" plate of steel with two holes bored out to fit the 22mm socket and the top pig. The hard part was getting an exact relational measurement of the two holes of the CBR frame. This was critical for the bike to hang correctly.

JPEG Image - 4.30 MB - 09/08/2016 at 19:32

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P1010810.JPG

OK the next part was the most time consuming. The "Coupler Plate" that is mounting the stand to the bike frame. On the CBR frame, there's a long bolt that holds on the swing arm. This bolt has a 22mm hex head. I bought a 22mm impact socket to fit that bolt. Also on the CBR frame is a hole right above the swing arm pin. This bolt holds the subframe on (the tail). On a lathe I cut a post with a 14-degree taper to fit into that subframe hole. The drilled and taped the tapered end of the pig to take a some all thread.

JPEG Image - 4.35 MB - 09/08/2016 at 19:11

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All fit well. So on to grinding for weld prep and MIG welding. I only did 1" to 2" welds to prevent the warping of the metal.

JPEG Image - 4.36 MB - 09/08/2016 at 19:05

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stand_08.jpg

Here's a dry fit of the feet and jack lift. I find it really worth it to mock up the build as I go. You find all sorts of issues.

JPEG Image - 514.96 kB - 09/08/2016 at 19:00

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stand_06.jpg

this shows a layout of the bases parts before welding. This is 2" 11 Ga hot rolled steel and .25" hot rolled steel plate. The middle foot is midered to fit in the corrner.

JPEG Image - 709.56 kB - 09/08/2016 at 18:48

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stand_05.jpg

First task, cut off the jacks base. I will later weld it to a new base

JPEG Image - 535.34 kB - 09/08/2016 at 18:44

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stand_04.jpg

I bought this trailer jack at harbor freight for $25. I wanted a crank handle and the capacity to lift more than 400 lb. This jack is rated to 3500 lb, I think that will do.

JPEG Image - 567.70 kB - 09/08/2016 at 18:38

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stand_03.jpg

exploded view of the parts and how the design works.

JPEG Image - 48.90 kB - 09/08/2016 at 18:26

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stand_02.jpg

CAD design of the parts and materials to buy and fabricate

JPEG Image - 30.03 kB - 09/08/2016 at 18:24

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