Now that I had the control board built and connected to the original PCB, I needed to modify the case so the new switches can be installed. As mentioned before, I tried to simplify the modifications to the front faceplate this time. Instead of cutting a larger hole in the original faceplate and riveting a new faceplate over it, I decided to modify the original faceplate to install square thumbwheel switch and use existing holes in the faceplate for the rotary switch, LED, push-button, and speaker hole.
The first task was cleaning the old graphics off the original faceplate. I use some 100% acetone and rag to do that.
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Then I drew up a template for the 22.5 mm x 22.5 mm square hole required for the 2 Digit Omron A7BS BCD encoded thumbwheel switch and end caps. I used Inkscape to draw it to scale and printed it.
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I then taped this paper template to the front faceplate of the case and secured it to a scrap piece of 2x4. I was generous with the template and painters tape used to secure it. This provides a protective barrier the prevents scratches on the faceplate while drilling, filing, cutting, etc.. Once secured in the vise, I punched the center point of the marked drill holes in the template.
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Next I drilled the holes and used a square file to start squaring off the corners marked by the template. I had to be a little careful to keep everything inside the lines of the template. The aluminum sheet metal files very easily.
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Once three of the four holes were squared to the corners of the template square, I used a jigsaw to cut out each side of the square. The filed holes were just large enough to fit the jigsaw blade flush to each side of the square. Again, I had to be very careful to cut slowly following the template line and not cutting past the perpendicular line of the next side.
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Once the cuts were complete and I pulled out the remaining bit of metal, I used a larger metal file to clean up the square a little. I then test fitted the thumbwheel switch and filed a little more until it slid in snugly. My template was intentionally about .2 mm too small so I wouldn't end up with a hole too large. I knew filing the last .1 - .2 mm would be more precise than cutting. It was easy to file and took just a couple minutes to get it just right.
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Once I was satisfied with the fit, I pulled off the tape and template paper.
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And, the fit for the switch looked like this. BTW, don't press the switch into place just yet. Once it snaps into place it's difficult to remove. I still needed to configure and solder the cable to the switch.
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The rest of the holes will be used as is. In the pics above, you can see that I also test fitting the panel mount LED holder as well.
The three holes on the right are about 3/8" (9 mm). So, I needed a small panel mount push button that could fit. I pulled one off a panel from my spares stash that I keep for just such occasions. This panel came out of an old Cable TV line tester/analyzer that's no longer useful. I bought it cheap for the case, power supply, and vector scope CRT for another project. This panel will be replaced in the final version. So, I can used all the cool switches, knobs, pots, jacks, and LEDs for other projects :-)
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