It is well known, the Lenovo Thinkpad W530 as the most silent laptop speakers. I aim to fix that.
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As can be seen above, on page 79 of the schematics (link in the comments below) seems to be the power distribution schematics. There are a couple candidates that are interesting here: VCC5M, VCC5B, and most importantly because likely switched with laptop power: VCC5M_OUT which can be had at the inductor L3. According to the documentation above the pin name it appears to be able to 22Amps. Seems like a lot and could mean that 1.5A might be available to my little Class-D amp. More on this later.
Looking at the board layout gives me L3 in a location that is covered by the magnesium frame. Magnesium. Metal. That's gonna hurt me at some point.
However, this board file viewer is really cool and clicking on the signal reveals where this signal goes! So I found these guys:
And these guys are located here:
Happy as I am to find exposed and seemingly very well supported pins (lots of vias visible making these pins very good candidates) I take my multimeter out and start measuring. Sure enough, I find 5.17 volts and on the other sid/!@#$%^&POWEROFF
The overall power and quality of this laptop makes it impossible to ignore that the speakers are terrible. I want to be able to use YouTube or any other audio producing software without using headphones all the time. Or video conferencing, now that we are in the midst of a global pandemic. This stuff just has to work these days. Clicking on the first test video was therefore a huge disappointment. The speakers are high pitch and annoying and on top of that extremely silent. I almost feel lied to because the size of the speaker grills speak a completely different language. They are even taller than the keyboard and over an inch wide.
A quick google search revealed: Every W530 user first wonders if their laptop is broken and then resigns in despair that it's not. How can this be? This is certainly not the first Thinkpad. Speakers were always a weak point but usually not THIS bad. It's almost a statement by itself: "We know it's shit, we don't also want everyone around you to notice!!"
Well, shit or not, my idea is to install a PAM8403 5V stereo 3 Watts amplifier inside of the laptop to drive the existing speakers with more power. At least at first. Maybe, I'll test custom speakers at a later point but there is really not that much vertical space available to install something like modern MacBook speakers or similar. Louder is fine for now. Quality can come later.
The PAM8403 is a tiny 5V amp that has been tested by many and declared good enough for most small projects! It costs next to nothing and comes on breadable breakout boards ready to run.
During my first tests I noticed that it does NOT run on the 5V power provided by a USB port. It constantly dies and clips and is generally unusable. It needs a real 5V power source and that will be the primary concern for the whole project. The board is small enough to fit nearly anywhere but power needs to be had in order for it to function properly.
I did some primitive tests with two different, salvaged laptop speakers and so far, I'm pretty happy with the output. I'd guess about 10 times louder and still reasonably clear. Full blast is a compromise but I rather have some minimal clipping than not being able to hear a speaker because some wall heater turned on.
Tasks for the next couple weeks: Identify a 5V source inside the laptop from which I can draw about 1.5A under full load (2 x 3Watts). That might be more challenging than usual since I don't have any schematics or diagrams from this laptop and don't want to take the entire machine apart to find it. We'll see. It's a big laptop and I'd be surprised if I can't find one Amp somewhere.
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Before you start soldering stuff to your motherboard, how about doing a couple of tests:
- Hook up an external amplifier between the motherboard and the stock speakers
- Hook up speakers from another laptop with known good sound (my office laptop, a 2020 MacBook Pro, has really good sound, despite the other things I don't like about it)
- External amp + better speakers
Compare the results of the three tests.
These non-invasive tests can help you to identify whether the biggest problem is crappy speakers, or the onboard amp lacking power to drive them.
You may find out that you just need better speakers and then you won't need to mess with the amp retrofit.
By three possible HDD slots, do you mean one SATA drive in the regular drive bay, second one in an adapter, plugged in the Ultrabay instead of a DVD drive, and one mSATA SSD in the full-width mPCIe slot? (I wouldn't call that last one an "HDD slot")
That VCC5M_OUT in ThinkPads is equivalent to 5V ALW or 5V RUN in other laptops I think (not sure if VCC5M_OUT is always on, though. You could check that with multimeter when the laptop is off).
You could get that line from post 1 of L29 too. Maybe thats a little bit more avaliable.
You are gonna pull 1,5A max so it will be safer to not use the thinnest lines from the board.
Also maybe use some thermal conductive glue to secure your amp to the magnesium frame, cause its gonna draw almost 8W and can became quite hot, depending on its efficiency
L29 should be under your WLAN card, the top one post is VCC5M_OUT
I got interested in your project, cause my private laptop is ThinkPad T430 and speakers here are very silent too, so maybe I will try to do something like you some day :P
The lines that are powered from VCC5M_OUT are:
VCC1R5VIDEO, DDR3_VREF, VCC0R75B, VCC1R5A, VCC1R8B, VCC1R05B_VTT and VCC1R05AMT.
I doubt they are taking full 22Amps, good that CPU and GPU are powered directly from 20V line.
You can try to hook up an ampmeter into this line to check how many amps is it using, but as you are using ssd's, no wwan card + there must be some overhead on this line's capability, you should be OK with hooking 1,5A to this line.
It is possible that you will need some more decoupling caps near the amp, but it's an easy task to do and it will help to filter the noises on 5v line
I checked with a DMM and it's off when the laptop is off. Seems ideal. I'll look under the WLAN card next. I agree that a thick trace is better. The traces I found look extremely thick so far, even in the top left corner as pointed out in my log above. These are not normal traces, they look more like a 5V plane to me. Having said that, I want to see what's underneath the WLAN card.
The thermal load of the amp is very small. People have tested that already and even when driving larger speakers the amp barely gets warm to the touch. I think about adding a spare raspberry pi heat sink and stick it to the magnesium frame using some double sided foam tape on the back of the board. We'll see how much space I have. Right now, all I got is an amp with a big potentiometer attached to it. I'll have to shrink that down a bit or buy a smaller breakout board.
You can find schematic and boardview on google easily, first page is badcaps forum with both avalible.
Look for the line 5V ALW, it's 5v thats always on. Probably you can just solder a wire to a choke that outputs that 5v.
Optionally you could look for 5V RUN, that is ON only when laptop is powered, but i'm not sure if it can give you that current.
You can always use that with a transistor to turn it on.
Wish you luck with that!
Love it! Thank you! Initially, I wanted to keep the project private until I have something to show and then thought: "Hey, there is a fantastic community here, maybe someone has an idea!" Didn't even take 10h for someone to point me in the right direction! Amazing!
The amp in standby only pulls 25uA or so. I think I might just leave it on all the time. We'll see. A small mosfet power switch wouldn't be a big deal either. I haven't done any power measurements, yet. All I know at this point is that it needs a decent power source to work.
The 5V ALW line you suggested, are you able to point me to the page number and exact name of the connection, by any chance?
https://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=76771
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It won't make speakers louder (quite opposite) but if you want to drastically improve their quality i recommend you use my PEQ profile. I've measured the speakers with a measurement mic and generated PEQ (Parametric EQ) profile to correct them. It mainly tanks the 1kHz peak and bumps up 10kHz+ making them sound so much better. Here are measurements before/after https://i.imgur.com/tRVXQUW.png. Yes we have absolutely no bass, if you were to add bt speaker just for bass (0-1kHz) you would improve it massively. Filters 1-8 are for left speaker and rest are for right speaker
Filter 1: ON PK Fc 1229 Hz Gain -11.40 dB Q 3.272
Filter 2: ON PK Fc 1517 Hz Gain -2.00 dB Q 4.062
Filter 3: ON PK Fc 5222 Hz Gain -3.50 dB Q 4.203
Filter 4: ON PK Fc 6775 Hz Gain -4.70 dB Q 5.000
Filter 5: ON PK Fc 7510 Hz Gain 6.60 dB Q 7.430
Filter 6: ON PK Fc 9269 Hz Gain 4.00 dB Q 5.242
Filter 7: ON PK Fc 11121 Hz Gain 3.20 dB Q 7.245
Filter 8: ON PK Fc 13960 Hz Gain 2.20 dB Q 6.888
Filter 9: ON PK Fc 1163 Hz Gain -11.80 dB Q 2.333
Filter 10: ON PK Fc 2367 Hz Gain 1.10 dB Q 2.479
Filter 11: ON PK Fc 4715 Hz Gain -2.20 dB Q 2.654
Filter 12: ON PK Fc 5313 Hz Gain 9.90 dB Q 7.494
Filter 13: ON PK Fc 5478 Hz Gain -10.40 dB Q 5.000
Filter 14: ON PK Fc 6976 Hz Gain -14.10 dB Q 5.000
Filter 15: ON PK Fc 7539 Hz Gain 18.00 dB Q 3.764
Filter 16: ON PK Fc 8501 Hz Gain 0.00 dB Q 6.433
Filter 17: ON PK Fc 8677 Hz Gain 0.00 dB Q 5.555
Filter 18: ON PK Fc 18733 Hz Gain -2.80 dB Q 1.538