Build Instructions

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• 1

  Somehow find the chips

  The problem is that now the versions of this chip you can buy on Aliberber or whatever are all fakes. Here's what I got last time I tried to buy them from "the usual suspects"
  

  
  
  As far as I know, the original chip was designed by this company:
  http://www.hhbytech.com/en/product-details.aspx?category=2&id=7
  and I managed to buy them from yumin2191@163.com for years. I paid less than $10 each, but then had to pay a huge shipping fee to get DHL and import fees on top of that. I don't see ANY reliable sources for the chip.
  
  If you decide to built it, for god sake, try to get it from the original MFGR.

• 2

  Follow the steps from the site

  http://www.massmind.org/Techref/io/stepper/THB6064/index.htm#Assembly
  
  

  1. [ ] Surface mount Resistors. There are only two surface mount devices on this board, unless you count the driver chip as SMT because of the way it's being mounted. The components are large compared to most SMD and they really are easy to solder. The only trick is that there are no holes to hold the components in place by the leads, so you need some way to keep them in place while you solder. Almost anything that has 3 or 4 corners and won't melt can be used. A metal box, a heat sink, an aluminum extrusion, … anything. Probably the best is made from vice grips and a screw driver tip. If you don't have vice grips, wrap a rubber band around the far end of the handle of a pair of pliers. Or just tape one side of the part down with clear tape!

  Once the part is held down in position, touch the pad, next to the end of the part, solder, flow, off. Solder one side of each part, check position, solder the other side.

  3. [ ] Variable Resistor: This is the drive current adjustment. It can be installed either way but being able to get in there to turn it is the trick. Make sure you will be able to get to it after installing the other components. Take care not to melt the case by letting each lead cool a bit after soldering. If you like, you can even bend the leads on the variable resistor and install it flat agasint the PCB, with the shaft up.

  4. [ ] Logic power options: There are 3 ways to get logic power, please select one:

  External logic power via the PMinMO header: Nothing needs to be done to the PCB, just supply 5 volts via pin 9 (with ground on pin 7 or 2,4,6,8,10). The PMinMO header can be connected to the 4Axis board, or directly to a PC parallel port cable. You can provide power on that PMinMO header from the 4 Axis board, a USB port, or your own 5+ regulated power source. On the version 1.3 board, with VM greater than 35 volts, this is the necessary option.

  Logic power without fan via VM+ < 35 volts: The onboard 5 volt regulator can supply the small logic current required from VM+ up to about 35 volts^. This is NOT recommended for the full possible 50 volts the drive can accept; in that case, supply external logic power as above. In this configuration the fan connector will be VM+ so the fan has to be able to accept the drive voltage or have a separate supply. For this option, clip off part of a lead from the large capacitor to short the two pins of U2 furthest from the edge of the board (nearest the "ERR" silkscreen) as shown here: TODO: Picture. Keep in mind, you will be applying >9 volts to VM+ when testing logic power below.

  FAN Power regulator (Option): To use the FAN connector on the PCB, you need to install the large TO-220 LM317HVT or AHVT. This can manage the up to 50 volt motor supply and produce 12 volts at a high enough amperage to run most CPU fans. ERRATTA: There is an error in the values populated on the version 1.3 board: R8 is 240 ohm and R9 is 680. This results in the output of the regulator being 5 volts, which will not provide enough headroom for the already polulated LM7805 regulator to generate logic power. R9 must be changed to 2K2 ohms.

  If you do install the onboard logic power regulator option, the LM317 goes in U2, with the tab towards the outside of the PCB. The tab must be electrically isolated from ground, so a mica insulator must be installed between the tab and the heatsink, and a shoulder washer should be used to keep the mounting bolt from touching the hole in the tab. Keep in mind, you will be applying >16 volts to VM+ when testing logic power below.

  5. [ ] VRef Test Point: Form loops from a couple clipped leads and push both ends into the hole for the VREF test point just behind the motor power terminals.

  6. [ ] Jumpers: When you solder on the 2x5 header for the options jumpers and the shrouded 2x5 PMinMO header, it's a good idea to bounce around in the pin order rather than just going down the line. It keeps the plastic from getting soft and perhaps not holding the pins straight. If you have the mating female connector handy, plug it in while soldering. Note the notch in the shrouded header is away from the edge of the board. Option 1 is away from the edge, next to the power cap. Option 5 is near the edge of the PCB.

  7. [ ] Terminal Blocks: Slide two of the three terminal blocks together so that the rail and groove interlock.

  4. [ ] Capacitor: The large electrolytic cap goes in with the long lead in the square hole, and the stripe side towards the round hole. It can be installed all the way down on the PCB for physical stability. And it's probably best to set it aside and come back to it after you have done all the other components. Save the clipped off extra leads for use as jumpers in the logic power section.

  Assembly time to this point is about 20 minutes.

• 3

  Preliminary Inspection and Test:

  11. [ ] At this point, without the chip installed, do a visual inspection, preferably with a magnifying glass. If you want to be extra careful, you can check the resistances to ground at the pads where the main chip will be soldered on. Note: This table assume no option jumpers are in place. If they are, the DCY# and M# pins will be <0.2 instead of 12K. Pin 1 is on the left looking from the top with the chip away from you.

  TOP:
  Pin	Signal	Pad*	Normal 1	ALERT	1	OO	
  3 	DCY1	2	~15K or <0.5
  5 	VREF	3	470-5K5
  7 	M1	4	~15K or <0.5
  9 	M3	5	~15K or <0.5
  11	NFB	6	<0.5
  13	PGNDB	7	<0.2
  15	NFA	8	<0.5
  17	PGNDA	9	<0.2
  19	RESET	10	~15K	
  21	STEP	11	~15K
  23	OSC2	12	47K
  25	DOWN	13	6K2
  

  VREF = ~470 to ~4K as the trim pot is turned Note: ~15K is 10-20K. VMA/B expect C1 dischanged

  BOTTOM: Pin Signal Pad* Normal 2GND SGND 1 <0.2 4 DCY2 2 ~15K or <0.5 6 VMB 3 ~3M5 8 M2 4 ~12K or <0.5 10 Out2B 5 10K 12 Out1B 6 10K 14 Out2A 7 10K 16 Out1A 8 10K 18 EN 9 ~15K 20 VMA 10 ~3M5 22 DIR 11 ~15K 24 VDD 12 >5K Normal readings are not exact. *Pad is the pad count on that side.

  If using PMinMO header, apply 5V logic power at pin 9. Otherwise, apply motor power to VM+. Now the 5V logic power system can be checked, the +5v led should be on and the Vref can be measured and adjusted to a low value: 0.4-0.5V. Power off and prepare for finally assembly.

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