The leadscrew cap allows the tension on the bearing to be adjusted to reduce wobble.

Apply, glue to the external surface of the 10mm long M4 hex standoff and insert into the leadscrew cap, allow the glue to cure.

Into the side hole in the motor coupling carefully insert the M4 x 6mm grub screw and tighten.

A thread will be cut into the plastic as its tightened.

To prevent stripping the thread or possibly splitting the plastic, tighten half a turn than slacked by a quarter turn until the grub screw is visible in the motor spindle hole.

Apply, glue to the external surface of the 5mm long M4 hex standoff and insert into the motor coupling, allow the glue to cure.

Solder the Shim to the back of the motor to enable connections, in this case the shim uses a JST-ZH and the other end is connected to DuPont pins to fit in the screw terminals on the Robotics board for the motor.

The motor is a push fit into the motor support, although some filing may be required.

In the event that it does not fit snugly, a cap is included to hold it in place.

Once the motor is fitted the coupler can be attached as a push fit with additional security enabled by tightening the grub screw.

Align the flat of the motor coupling with the flat on the spindle and fit the motor coupling over the motor spindle.

There are four 3mm holes in the motor support .

Attached to these holes are 20mm hex standoffs held in place with M3 x 12mm bolts.

The rail support also with four 3mm holes is aligned to the hex standoffs and fixed with M3 x 12mm bolts.

The LED arm is propelled down the leadscrew by a nut, this nut fits into a retainer that fits into a slot in the body.

The retainer also has a hole which aligns with one of the glide rods

The retainer will require some sanding to ensure its a snug fit in the slot and that the nut and glide hole aligns with the main body to enable smooth transit of the LED arm.

If the retainer is too slack it behaves as a break impeding travel.

Check that the glide holes do not impede movement of the arm along the glide tubes by sliding it up and down each tube and if necessary run a 6mm drill or round file in the hole to remove high spots and improve travel.

Align the retainer ensuring the nut is positioned in line with the central hole and push home.

The support for the LED's is attached to the main body at the pivot point by two M3 x 12mm bolts and tensioned by a spring (between the arm and main body), fit the spring whilst pressing the arm and body together whilst fitting the pivot bolts. Clamping in a vice to compressing spring whilst fitting the pivot bolts will make the task easier.

Fit the level adjusting bolt at the back of the main body and tighten on a level surface such that the main body and LED support sit relatively flat. Further levelling can be performed once fitted to the glide rails.

Fit the LED's

In order to determine whether the arm has reached either end stop, ball magnets are affixed to the left and right hand sides with epoxy. These will trigger Hall effect sensors when in close proximity.

Ensure there is sufficient cable length from the arm to the driver board when the arm it at its maximum travel .

The two glide rails are 30cm lengths of 6mm stainless steel tube, these are cut from longer lengths with a saw.

Use a v-block or vice with soft jaws to prevent deforming the tube.

Two 32cm lengths of 4mm diameter threaded rod are sawn.

Remove any burrs with a file or sanding paper.

Into each tube insert a length of threaded rod.

Cut a 34cm length of threaded rod with the saw.

Use a vice with soft jaws to prevent deforming the thread or the rod.

Remove any burrs with a file or sanding paper.

Check if the leadscrew for deforned from sawing by rolling on a flat surface, resistance to rolling will indicate deformation.

The high points can be pressed out by supporting two points equidistant from the centre of the bend and carefully applying pressure to the high point. However, this becomes more difficult the further the bend is from the centre.

Ideally, try not to bend the leadscrew.

The base is constructed from two Acrylic sheets 24cm (W) x 40cm (L) x 5mm (D).

These are placed one on top of each other separated by a 25mm gap, enabling wire runs and circuit boards to be placed out of sight.

The 25mm gap is maintained with M3 hex spacers, one in each of the corners and one in each of the long edges to prevent the board sagging.

The majority of the drill holes are 3mm with the exception of the RTC requiring 2mm holes, 6mm holes for cable runs and switches.

When drilling the holes it's recommened to clamp the two sheet together, this will save drilling the holes twice particularly for the corners and long edges which have screws top and bottom aligned with the pillars.

It also enables the elements to be fitted and removed without disassembling the base by using the holes to access the fixing screws from both the top and the bottom.

A slot is required to enable the Microbit to be inserted in the Robotics Board via the PinBetween.

The RTC, USB socket, Driver board and Robotics board are fitted between the base boards and therefore out of site.

Feed the leadscrew through the central horizontal hole and through the nut.

Spin the arm down the thread about half way down.

Take the motor support and rail support asembly and into one of the 4mm holes insert a 31mm threaded rod with 5mm of rod visible on the other side and fit a washer and a nut on the thread.

Repeat the process with the other 4mm hole.

Slide both 6mm diameter tubes over the rods.

Slide the LED arm over the rods and down until it meets the motor coupling.

To the leadscrew at the end closest to the motor, fit a M4 nut such that 5mm of thread is visible and insert into the motor coupling, turn the rod until the nut meets the coupling and tighten the nut.

Align the 4mm holes of the other rail support over the threaded rods and with the leadscrew passing through the central hole, ensure the tubes are aligned with the depressions in the rail supports then fit washers and nuts to both and tighten.

Ensure the nuts at the other end are held in place and not allowed to spin while that other end is being tightened.

Do not overtighen the nuts as this may damage the rail support or deform the tubes.

Fit a flanged bearing over the leadscrew and push fit into the central hole.

Attach the leadscrew cap onto the leadscrew and tighten as close as possible to the bearing but not to impede smooth rotation of the leadscrew. Turn the leadscrew between your fingers to assess the tension, too tight will prevent movement and excessive tension will bow the glide rails and or leadscrew.

Place the X-Axis assembly on a flat surface to ensure that rail supports sit evenly at all four fixing points.

Check the glide rails are parrallel with a small spirit level.

If it does not sit flat, hold by the rail supports, one in each hand and rotate carefully in opposiing directions and recheck and repeat, adjusting the tension on the nuts and the leadscrew cap as required until level.

If everything is level fit to the base board and recheck.

The height of the Luminous paper in relation to the LED arm is adjusted by adding multiple sheets of A4 card directly beneath it. These too have holes punched to align vertically and fit on the two alignment pins. Add sheets to position the Luminous paper as close as possible to the LED arm and LED's without it touching.

Adjust the levelling screw if necessarily.