The LED rings I found came connected to each other, so they needed twisted apart and I used side cutters to remove the PCB nubs left behind.

Starting at the top ring (single LED), solder wires to connect the layers. All the 5V connections should be wired together and all the GND connections should be wired together. DO of the lower layer should go to DI of the upper layer. DO of the top LED will be disconnected. I found it useful to add some extra flux to the pads to make the solder spread to the entire pad.

One nuance of the rings I used is the top LED swaps the DI and DO positions. The silk screen labels were correct and should be followed.

When cutting wires to connect layers, try to keep lengths equal to make an even cone shape.

Cut a square piece of wood for the base. I used a scrap piece of 2x6 pine.

Cut the corners at 45-degrees to create a regular octagon. This shape matches the size of my bottom ring pretty well.

Drill a hole in the wood centered in the block approximately ½ inch from the back. The hole should be big enough for three wires from the rings to travel down into the control circuitry without much extra room. I used a 5/32 drill bit, but the size isn't too important.

Using a small chisel, cut out cavities for all the components at the back of the block. The back side is whichever side looks the worst.

I kept all the electrical components (Arduino, Ethernet controller, voltage regulator, and power connector) disconnected up to this point so I could lay them out on the wood and check fit as I carved out a cavity. The cavity should be deep enough that all the components and wires are fully recessed in the wood and the block can lay flush on a flat surface. Too deep is better than too shallow.

When cutting out the cavity, be careful near corners because large chunks may break off. If this happens, keep the pieces to glue back on later. After sanding and staining, the mistake won't be very noticeable.

Sand the base with increasingly fine sandpaper. I started with 100 grit and finished with 800 grit. Continue until all surfaces are smooth.

Apply wood stain according to manufacturer's directions and let dry completely.

Apply aerosol sealant according to manufacturer's directions and let dry completely.

Solder the following wires:

• Reset button should connect RST and GND on the Arduino Pro Micro
• ENC28J60 SCK to Arduino Pro Micro 15
• ENC28J60 SO to Arduino Pro Micro 14
• ENC28J60 SI to Arduino Pro Micro 16
• ENC28J60 CS to Arduino Pro Micro 10
• LED DI to Arduino Pro Micro 9
• GND on LEDs, ENC28J60, 5V connector, voltage regulator, and Arduino should all be connected
• 5V from connector should go to LEDs
• Voltage regulator input to Arduino 5V
• Voltage regulator output to ENC28J60 VCC

Note, I set this up so both the Arduino micro USB and the 5V barrel connector must be connected simultaneously. I did this using a custom Y connector that only provides power to the Arduino USB connector. This was an artifact of the prototyping I did, so you can definitely use a good 5V power supply and power the Arduino using its power pins.

The ENC28J60 is 3.3V logic, but is 5V tolerant. I had no issues interfacing between the 5V Arduino and the 3.3V Ethernet module.

Be careful when desoldering headers from the ENC28J60 board. I accidentally removed the through-hole plating from some of the connections and had to solder directly to the ENC28J60 SMD package.

Use hot glue to adhere components inside the underside cavity. If the surface of the cavity is too smooth, consider using another type of adhesive because hot glue may come off.

Place foam feet at the corners of the block under side.