-
1Battery Board PCB Assembly
- We start the battery board assembly by adding solder paste to each component pad.
- Next, we pick and place all the SMD components in their places using an ESD tweezer.
- We set the PCB on our DIY REFLOW hotplate to heat it up to the temperature at which solder paste melts. Solder paste melts when the PCB reaches the melting temperature, and components are connected to their pads.
- Next, we use a soldering iron to attach the SMD Li-ion Cell Holders from the bottom side.
- At last, we added the Li-ion cells in their holders in the right polarity.
The circuit is now complete
-
2Battery Board Dual Assembly
After creating two distinct battery pack boards, we need to connect them together to create a single battery pack setup. This is done by sandwiching the two boards with 45-mm-long M3 PCB standoffs.
- Using four M3 bolts, we first install four standoffs on a single battery board.
- The second board is then mounted using the extended PCB standoffs and four more M3 standoffs.
- The end result will be a battery pack circuit made up of two separate boards connected by PCB standoffs.
-
3Battery Section Assembly
- The battery circuit is now positioned within the battery section part and fastened there with four M3 bolts.
- The switches from both circuits are then unsoldered, and they are attached to the switch slots on the battery section part.
- We reconnect both switches to the circuits.
- In addition, we added a DC barrel jack to the battery section and connected it to the battery board's CON2 charging port using two wires. In order for both battery board circuits to be charged when the charger is plugged in, we additionally connect the CON2 charging ports of both circuits in parallel.
-
4Adding the Mid Part with the Battery Section
- After assembling the battery section, we placed the midsection on top of it and fastened them both together with four M2 screws.
-
5Raspberry Pi Holder Section
- The Raspberry Pi is now positioned in its place on the Pi holder part and is secured using four M3 bolts.
Pi holder section assembly is now complete.
-
6Battery Section and Raspberry Pi Holder Section Assembly
Next, we linked the lower end of the battery section to the previously built RGB LED board or base.
https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/rgb-led-board-for-power-pi-2-4e7f7d
- We begin by connecting the RGB LED board's positive and negative terminals to the 5V and GND terminals on the battery board.
- The base is then positioned in its proper location and fastened there with four M2 screws.
-
7Top Section Assembly
Threaded inserts are required in order to mount the handle in its proper location on the top part.
All sizes of bits for threaded inserts are included in this TS100 TIP Adaptor Kit that we obtained from PCBWAY Giftshop.
We utilize our Hakko soldering iron and the supplied T18-B alternative bit, which we pair with an M3-size bit.
- Subsequently, the threaded insert is picked and positioned over the hole on the top section. The insert is then pushed downward using the soldering iron, causing it to heat up and slide into place.
- As much as possible, keep the temperature set below 180°C and above 100°C.
- The threaded inserts are added to their places, and we repeat the process for the other side of the top section.
- Now that the handle is in the correct spot, we mount it securely using two M3 bolts.
-
8Top Assembly Final
This time, the top portion is placed over the Pi holder assembly and fastened in place with four M2 screws.
-
9Final Touches: Adding Name Tags
- Using four M2 screws, we first attached the Power Pi Version 2 nametag to the device.
- The XO name tag is then inserted into the battery section and fastened using M2 screws.
- Finally, we used super glue to attach the Arasaka logo to the Pi Holder body.
-
10Result
Here's the result of this slightly larger but simple build: a functional Raspberry Pi computer with a built-in battery pack and a cyber-like aesthetic.
Since the Raspberry Pi 4 powers this setup, it can manage almost everything we throw at it, including the old games we intend to run on it.
Here's a fun thing: A web application can control the RGB board color, so all we have to do to control lighting is use a Raspberry Pi or any other external device to access the web application by utilizing the ESP8266 IP address.
Check out the previously built RGB LED board project here.
https://www.hackster.io/Arnov_Sharma_makes/rgb-led-board-for-power-pi-2-4e7f7d
The RGB LED Board was a large project on its own, necessitating the creation of a separate build guide, so we created a separate project for it.
All in all, the project is finished, and the project page has links to download all the files, documents, and other information.
Overall, this project is complete and needs no further revisions.
A special thank you to PCBWAY for supporting this project; visit them to get a wide range of services, including CNC and PCB services.
I will be back with a new project soon.
Discussions
Become a Hackaday.io Member
Create an account to leave a comment. Already have an account? Log In.