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DIY Bench Power Supply

Made a bench PSU from scratch using the ZK-4KX DC-DC Buck Boost module and a 3D-printed body.

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Greetings everyone welcome back, and here's a powerful project, the DIY Bench Power Supply. With the exception of the PSU we used, which was extracted from an old Ender 3 printer, everything was made completely from scratch.

Here, we are using the ZK-4KX DC-DC Buck Boost converter module, an adjustable regulated power supply module with a voltage range of 0.5–30V and 4A. It can be used for a number of power-related applications, such as solar battery charging, as a boost converter to drive high-power LEDs, or even to create a bench power supply.

The ZK-4X is solely a module that requires 0 to 30V to provide us with regulated or boosted voltage and current; therefore, we needed to add a power supply, which we were able to recover from the Ender 3 3D printer. This power supply was a 24V, 10A SMPS.

Here, we are using the ZK-4KX DC-DC Buck Boost converter module, an adjustable regulated power supply module with a voltage range of 0.5–30V and 4A. It can be used for a number of power-related applications, such as solar battery charging, as a boost converter to drive high-power LEDs, or even to create a bench power supply.

The ZK-4X is solely a module that requires 0 to 30V to provide us with regulated or boosted voltage and current; therefore, we needed to add a power supply, which we were able to recover from the Ender 3 3D printer. This power supply was a 24V, 10A SMPS.

We created a PCB with a Flux Capacitor design to add some visual elements to our project. It has a few SMD LEDs that continuously display an animation like a flux capacitor. The Attiny85 microcontroller drives all of the LEDs, and the SMPS 24V power supply powers this PCB.

We added a Power INLET box with fuse holder, along with a few banana pin connectors and other stuff, which are all clearly explained in this article, so let's get started with the build.

ZK-4KX DC-DC Buck Boost Module

The heart of this project is the ZK-4KX DC DC Buck Boost Converter, which is a 0.5–30V 4A Power Module Adjustable Regulated Power Supply featuring an LCD that can display input/output voltage, output current, output power, output capacity/output time, along with many key features like a good conversion efficiency of 88%, stable 3A output current, input and output reverse protection, and more.

Here's its full manual, which you can checkout for more details.

https://rees52.com/products/zk-4kx-cnc-dc-dc-buck-boost-converter-cc-cv-0-5-30v-4a-power-module-adjustable-regulated-power-supply-for-solar-battery-charging-rs2728

https://manuals.plus/parts-express/zk-4kx-cnc-dc-dc-buck-boost-converter-manual

SPECIFICATIONS-

  • Input voltage: 5.0–30 volts
  • Output voltage: 0.5–30 volts
  • Output current: can work stably at 3A for a long time, and can reach 4A under enhanced heat dissipation
  • Output power: natural heat dissipation, 35W; strengthened heat dissipation, 50W
  • Voltage display resolution: 0.01V
  • Current display resolution: 0.001A
  • Conversion efficiency: about 88>#/li###
  • Soft start: yes (with high power, the load module may fail when starting)
  • Protection mechanism:
  • Input anti-reverse connection
  • Output: anti-reverse irrigation
  • Input under voltage protection (4.8–30 V adjustable, default 4.8 V)
  • Output overvoltage protection (0.5–31 V adjustable, default 31V)
  • Output overcurrent protection 0-4.1a (adjustable, default 4.1A)
  • Overpower protection (0-50w adjustable, default 50W)
  • Overtemperature protection (80-110°C adjustable, default 110℃)
  • Timeout protection (0–100 h adjustable, off by default)
  • Super capacity protection (0–60 ah adjustable, off by default)
  • Operating frequency: 180 kHz

How to use:

The device operates by providing power to its input terminals; however, in order to turn on the output terminal, we must tap the rotary encoder button.

The output terminal's voltage can be set by using the rotary encoder.

The SET button has two main functions that are as follows: when pressed once, it indicates the amount of Ah utilized, and when pressed twice, it shows the amount of that the load has used. The third tap changes it back to mA consumed by the load, and the fourth tap displays the consumed by the load.

The U/I button is used for setting voltage and constant current. It can be seen that a certain digit of the output voltage value is flashing. Rotate the encoder left and right to adjust the major and minor.Short-press the rotary encoder to choose which bit of output voltage to set. After setting, press the U/I button 2 times to return to the normal interface. Or automatically return to the normal interface after stopping operation for 10 seconds.

Power Supply

We are using an old 3D printer's 24V/10A power supply, which powers 24V servo motors, as our power source. Given that the ZK-4KX Module only allows voltage up to 30V, a 24V PSU was ideal for...

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Preview

  • 1
    PCB Assembly Process
    • The PCB assembly process begins by first adding solder paste to each component pad.
    • Next, we pick and organize each SMD component after positioning it in its proper location.
    • After that, we set the board on our PCB hotplate reflow hotplate, which increases the PCB's temperature from below to the point at which solder paste melts, allowing the components to be soldered to their pads.
    • Next, we placed the Push Switch and DIP8 Socket in their proper locations and used a soldering iron to solder the respective pads.

    The board is now complete.

  • 2
    CODE and Flashing Process

    This is the basic code that we utilize for this project. Five I/O Pins of the Attiny85 (D0, D1, D2, D3, D4) are connected to each of the five outputs that we are using.

    This is a chaser sketch that exhibits a wave-like motion where light appears to be moving back and forth by sequentially toggling LEDs one after another.

    int pinsCount=5;                        // declaring the integer variable pinsCount
    int pins[] = {0,1,2,3,4};          // declaring the array pins[]
    void setup() {
    pinMode(0, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(1, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(2, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(3, OUTPUT);
    pinMode(4, OUTPUT);
    }
    void loop() {
    for (int i=0; i<pinsCount; i=i+1){    // chasing right
    digitalWrite(pins[i], HIGH);         // switching the LED at index i on
    delay(70);                          // stopping the program for 100 milliseconds
    digitalWrite(pins[i], LOW);          // switching the LED at index i off
    }
    for (int i=pinsCount-1; i>0; i=i-1){   // chasing left (except the outer leds)
    digitalWrite(pins[i], HIGH);         // switching the LED at index i on
    delay(70);                          // stopping the program for 100 milliseconds
    digitalWrite(pins[i], LOW);          // switching the LED at index i off
    }
    }

    Flashing Process

    Here, we first install the Attiy85 on the DIP8 Socket of the shield. (Note that the Arduino Nano on the ISP Shield has the ISP sketch flashed on it.)

    • Next, we install the Attiny85 Core files for Arduino by going to the below link.

    https://github.com/SpenceKonde/ATTinyCore

    • After installing and setting up the core files, we go to tool menu and select the Attiny85 on board. We set the B.O.D to 1.8V and selected the programmer as "Arduino as ISP".
    • We then burn the bootloader, which takes up to 30 seconds to burn.
    • Once the bootloader has been burned, we select "Upload using programmer" from the sketch menu to upload the sketch to the Attiny85. The ISP flashing method does not support the regular upload method.
  • 3
    Power Source for Flux Capacitor Board

    We use a DC-DC Buck converter module, which runs at 7–26V and can provide a constant 5V, to power the flux capacitor, a 5V device, from a 24V supply.

    Here, we connected the DC DC Buck module's output wires to the VCC and GND of the flux capacitor board after adding wires for the module's input and output using a soldering iron.

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