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1Step 1
The solar extension cable had to be cut in two (one for negative and one for positive). These two new cables allow me to connect the solar panels into the charge controller:
http://d.pr/i/17BtH
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2Step 2
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3Step 3
This is the inside of the charge controller: http://d.pr/i/1fcUo
The charge controller regulates the amount of energy going from the solar panels into the battery. It helps protect the battery by ensuring:
1. The battery doesn't get over-charged
2. No more than 12V sent to the battery
3. The battery doesn't get completely depleted when using the "LOAD" output--
The charge controller has a series of dip-switches used to configure:
1. Operation time for the load output (which I don't currently use)
2. When to disable energy draw from the battery based on the amount of energy coming in from the panels (or the charge of the battery itself)
Normally you'd use an inverter from the LOAD output (if requiring AC), but my battery already has a built-in inverter (an inverter converts DC to AC).http://d.pr/i/16PHO
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4Step 4
Stripping the Solar PV cables - this cable is used to connect the battery to the charge controller.
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5Step 5
Connect the battery to the charge controller.
Connect the solar panels to the charge controller.
Success! Charge controller powered up and charging the battery... this was just a test run, so the charge controller isn't mounted yet
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6Step 6
And the charge controller is now mounted securely.
Nothing is connected to the LOAD output because I use power directly from the battery (which has a built-in inverter and standard AC outlets) -
7Step 7
Charge controller on the left, solar panels on the right
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8Step 8
The battery is located under my office desk (opposite side of the room, the cables run along the wall).
This is a special battery - sealed AGM which is safe for in-door use. It has a built-in inverter with 3 AC outlets on the front. Also on the front it has an energy gauge, and an LED light.
On the back, it has 2 USB ports for charging phones / mp3 players.
On the side, it has the jumper cable port, AC adapter port and a cigarette lighter port.
The alligator clips for the cables are temporary during this test run. They will be replaced shortly with a hub to connect the wires safely.
The meter on the PowerPack is a Kill-A-Watt, which measures:
Watts, Voltage, Kilowatt hours (kWh - how much energy I use each hour).
This little tool will help me measure and log how much energy I use overtime, so I can eventually get full usage from the grid, without any downtime of having to recharge the battery.Later I will be modifying the Kill-A-Watt to wirelessly save my energy log to my local server.
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