A very small microcontrolled RGB led circuit.
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My Specifications are:
* Very small PCB, preferably 1.5cm x 1.5cm or smaller, I chose this size as if I panalize them, I can get 9 out of a 5cm x 5cm pcb, so from somewhere like Seeedstudio, I could get 90 for $17 including shipping! Which is rediculous.
* Single RGB led.
* Small and cheap PIC processor, I like PICs...
* Cheap boost convertor, so it can be run from a single alkaline cell.
* Pushbutton power switch, I've a nice little circuit for this that I developed a few years ago, allowing power on/off and a general user switch from a single input pin and a tiny SMD pushbutton.
* I2C interface to allow the circuit to be used for other stuff, essentially giving me a serial RGB led. I know Neopixels are out there and are rather nice, but this will have the advantage of having the controller onboard.
Chosen Parts
* For the LED, I'm going to go with this, Its nice and bright and cheap enough.
http://uk.farnell.com/avago-technologies/asmb-mtb1-0a3a2/led-hb-rgb-0-09w-plcc-4/dp/2401106
* For the processor, I'm going with the PIC12LF1552, this is a nice little 8pin beasty, only 42p in 25 qtys, has an 16MHz internal oscillator, a mighty 2k of program FLASH ( should be enough for a flashy light) and a I2C Master port.
* The boost convertor is the Microchip MCP1640. This is a nice little(6 Pin SOT23) package, is cheap, 32p in 10 qtys, can start from 0.65V and can work down to 0.35V, admittedly at low current. It can also deliver more than enough current to drive a LED.
Other Considerations
My first draft of the circuit, shown in the gallery, had the TAG programming connector and also a 4pin 2.54mm pitch header connector, which supplies power and also the I2C connection. I realised that I was using 2 out of the 3 programming pins for the I2C link, so have decided to redo the PCB, getting rid of the TAG connector and using a 5 pin header, this will have GND, VCC and the 3 programming pins, after which it can be used for I2C if needed. This frees up quite a bit of board space and simplifies the routing.
As the programming pins don't like other components connected when programming is underway, I will have to add a couple of parts afterwards, this is a little awkward, but as its not a complex project, will be managable.
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There has been a great deal of value to me in my involvement with the project. Would like to share it with the Wedding Consultant Mexico team so they can also read it and implement something new.
I've seen something about a led that changes it color automaticaly and you just need to power it on.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/UTRONIX-Pin-RGB-colour-changing/dp/B01C4QSWPM
you can use a CR2032 or similar. it will make it small and with low-power consumption.
Just a friendly reminder to please upload your complete design documents by 23:59 UTC on Dec 8, 2015 to be in the running for #The Square Inch Project!
This is your one-week reminder to upload design documents: https://hackaday.io/project/7813-the-square-inch-project/log/28566-design-deadline
It was a tough decision, but we reluctantly decided going full medieval may be a little bit tacky. I know I know.... Plus pointy object, lots of booze, cant be a good mix. I'd give it an hour before going full Errol Flynn.....
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I have gotten a lot out of the project, and I appreciate it very much. To read it and put something fresh into practise, I'd like to share it with the wedding sparklers crew.