Obviously, the first order of business to repair the clock is to open it up. While looking at the back of the clock, remove the six extremely small black Phillips screws. While you're at it, remove the little door for the backup battery and the battery itself.

Next, remove the 12 small black Phillips screws from the base of the unit. Don't remove the screws from the iPod tray, or the silver screws from around the AM antenna connector. Once removed, you should be able to pry apart the base of the clock. The top will be stubborn, as there are small catches up there. Be gentle and pry the case apart.

At this point, you can disconnect the front LCD half of the clock from the rear of the clock. Gently unplug the backlight connector, the LCD data cable, the button cable, and the two speaker cables. Place the LCD half in a safe location, we won't need to do any work with it.

Now examine the back half of the clock.

On the lower left side, you will see the tuner module connected via a silver ribbon cable to the main CPU board. Disconnect that cable from the CPU board.

While pressing the iPod dock tray inwards so that it will clear the side of the case, slowly work the CPU board + iPod dock from the plastic housing. You won't be able to separate it completely from the clock housing because of the power cable, but that's okay. Be sure to feed the power cable along while you remove the part.

Next, remove the six tiny silver Phillips screws from the CPU board to disconnect it from the iPod dock. Gently lift the CPU board from the plastic dock, being careful to not damage the power cable or its strain relief. If you like, you can disconnect the ribbon cable to separate the board from the dock, but it is unnecessary for this repair.

Now, assuming your clock has the same problem that mine did, you should see the small crystal oscillator at the top of the board above the CPU. You should see it covered in some kind of crud. Most likely decomposed potting compound or glue to secure the crystal in place.

(On a side note, it is incredibly hard to get a good picture of this!)

As you can see, the goop was touching the left pin of the crystal, as well as several of the resistors to its left. My current theory is that this glue has turned somewhat conductive over the years, causing the clock circuit to not function.

It is this goop that you need to remove.

I was able to remove it from my clock using a toothpick, some contact cleaner, some alcohol, and some cotton swabs. It seemed to help to remove as much as possible while it was dry and brittle, and then soak the rest in alcohol to soften it.

Since I was already there, I reflowed the solder for the crystal, just to be certain the connection was good. I'm not sure if this was necessary, but it didn't seem to hurt.

Now, in tried and true Haynes manual-lingo, re-assemble in reverse order.

Be sure to seat the ribbon cables properly. The LCD data cable is a tough one. Also, be sure that you seat the LCD backlight connector all the way, otherwise you'll have to take the clock all apart again, just like I did.

After reassembly, be sure to have a good backup battery installed. That seems to matter. Also, I had to futz with the settings a bit to get it to take time. I turned ON the auto-dst setting, which seemed to cause the clock to jump about 75 years into the future, but after that, the clock was keeping good time and I was able to set the time and date appropriately.

This same ritual seems to be needed to be done after every power outage, but for now, it seems to work.

Once that was complete, the clock functioned as expected. Yay!