Raptor12 Wireless AC Dimmer

So here is what i ended up with once i layed the board out and set clearances. All though hole accept the micro. The reason for the smd part is very simple if i do a group buy for this as a kit its really the only component I can get a significant price break on. That would mean a lot of counting and re packaging, instead i woudl sell theses with atmegas328s presoldered and pre boot-loaded. So its super cheap to get started.

The top board is not done yet but it should be the same as the picture before.

Here is the current schmatic if anyone is intrested:

http://kneale.us/raptor12/ver3/Schmatic.pdf

03-02-2014, 06:17 PM

OK now i am for sure goign with the ta-200 case now just to see if it all fits. This is an extremely rough layout just to see the fit of things anyways. Looking very doable but i will have to use 2 boards.  Left goes on the bottom. right stacks right on top.

I am considerign useing the ta-200 enclouser that is commonly used for remote SSR curcits in many hobbly level stuff. There nice and cheap $6-7 each and they make a nice standard to work with. But it is a small case i need to knwo if the wires even fit, i don't have one handy so i just asked:)

Here is a quote from a member on the diychristmas.org forum

Username:JRD

"Took on the challenge and was very surprised! I used 18ga SPT-2 and was able to get 12 wires through the hole without the grommet!!

As you can see in the pictures 12 wires goes all the way to the edge of the enclosure so to be able to close it you may have to forfeit 2 wires. I'm not sure how you are going to do all the wiring in such a small box but more power to ya!"

Then a bit later he sent me this:

"I tried it again today but with an 18ga SPT-1 cord and I was able to fit 14 wires with room enough to close the box.

When I said "wires" in this and the above post I meant pairs of wire, ie 1 ribbed and 1 smooth per pair.

Things are starting to look real promising now, even with SPT-2.(which seems to be most popular for the AC controllers)"

Thansk jrd :) 

02-23-2014, 04:57 PM

Doing some more thinking, everything is moving to led.....

Currently bom for just triacs is about:
$6 with triac
or
$4 for SCRs + rectifier

Pros:
Cheaper
Automagicly converts leds to full wave.
Incandescent bulbes don't care

Cons:
Led strings can be plugged in backwards.(wont light but can't destroy anything)
Added heat from rectifier.
Is there any other good reason not to go the cheaper route?


and no need for mods this.
http://doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?28751-Group-Buy-FWC-Full-Wave-Converter-1-2-to-Full-Wave-LED-string-Converter-board

My though process:

Its one of thouse things where, you step back and ask your self what am i really trying to accomplish. Rather than just copy everyone else.

Another potential issue i just though off some half wave strings are reversed in the middle. Granted i think that an easy thing to fix with some heat shrink and solder.

02-19-2014, 10:37 PM

02-15-2014, 02:28 PM

Well it amazing how thing start working when you get back to basics...

Also the rf1 is just an arduneo clone for pixel controle that a buddy of mine created. More info at the link http://komby.com

02-14-2014, 08:28 PM

I guess i should post about where i am stuck.

I am missing some concept of current flow and I cant seam to get it working.

I found this as a reference, and started protypeing with its power supply and triac driving curcit.

http://www-user.tu-chemnitz.de/~heha/Mikrocontroller/Triac8/index.htm.en

Just as proof of conceptThat dosen't work)

[CODE]

// Pin 13 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards.

// give it a name:

int chan1 = 11;

int chan2 = 12;

int led = 13;

// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:

void setup() {

// initialize the digital pin as an output.

pinMode(led, OUTPUT);

}

// the loop routine runs over and over again forever:

void loop() {

pinMode(chan1, OUTPUT); //set as an output and

pinMode(chan2, OUTPUT);

digitalWrite(chan1, LOW); //connect pull down for chan1 and 2

digitalWrite(chan2, LOW); //Triac shoudl be on at this stage.

digitalWrite(led, HIGH);

//delayMicroseconds();

delay(10000);

// wait for a second

pinMode(chan1, INPUT); // Set as input this shoudl stop triggering the triac

pinMode(chan2, INPUT); //This should disable the pull up and have a 1meg ohm+ resistance.

digitalWrite(led, LOW);

delay(10000);

}[/CODE]

It seams to be what ever i try to do the triac is still triggered. After i set the pin as an input it still seams to be triggering the triac.

Here so far I have tested: (at this point i am using the power supply in the DMX dimmer circuit link.)

Measuring the ohm between chan1 and GND.

23ohm when pulled high

4Mohm when set as input

Trigger triac with various resistors.

Everything above 40kohm Will NOT trigger triacs.

09-28-2013, 10:37 PM

I have my own display to do for christmass so, this project is on hold until the new year. Sequencing, finishing layout etc.. 

All pixel  running around 1mps RF stream and just under 2k channels. ALl custoem controlers:)

Turned out pretty good:)

09-25-2013, 06:43 PM Though till december.

So i have this small controller but i failed to think about how wire management will work. Here what i am thinking if i add some cutouts and can have a very secure wire tie bundle.

At the top of the board i thinking of some kind of twisting locking mechanism with another pcb.

08-20-2013, 10:45 PM

Here is my design for the new chip the plan is it will fit in a 1inch pipe however i kept the board long on the edges is it could be drilled and fitted to other cases.

PDF of layout

http://kneale.us/raptor12/ver2/Printing%20Print%20NRF-Ac%20ver2.pdf

08-18-2013, 02:54 PM