THE GEM - Smart LED Grow Lamp[Light&heatsource]

The TO-92 package can seem a bit bulky, but because of the relatively long leeds there is no heat-contamination from the PCB or other components. Since the MAX31820 will be used to measure outgoing air or daisy chained on several points, it seems fitting to use the same sensor for incoming air measurements. The MAX31820 will fit in a 1.27 pitch header. 

The most basic configuration will have three measurements. Incoming air temp, outgoing air temp, heatsink core temp.

Theoretically everything should be aligned now. Thinking of breaking out the 5th fan channel on the mother-shield, so it can be useful without the connector BoB. That is, with a regular 4pin fan connector. That should cover it. I have decided to use the MAX31820 as the secondary temperature probe, connected to a 3pin Molex 3.0 plug. This sensor can be daisy-chained if need be. 

The Mother-shield has 4 (4pin) fan connector's. Plus the Molex 3.0 plug for the 5th fan channel. Using 4 x 4 pin splitters, one can add significant more cooling with a external PSU.  

Ready to order The Dimmer PCB

4 layers - Outer layers 105um - Inner layers 70um

So, I was sitting there with a 450MB 3D file which my processor was struggling to work on. After I flushed the model of junk it was down to 25MB. Damn!. Then I found out or kind of rediscovered Podium for Sketchup. Before I was cursing Sketchup for not exporting production grade files for manufactoring, now it downed on me why my old architect roomie used it. With the right (expensive) plugins and hardware/time, Sketchup becomes this animation beast. Rhino is Rhino 7 now. Importing and exporting skp files like a breeze. So what's the combined price tag on both with Podium and SU Pro. To high IMO. Often when I import files made in SU to Rhino there is all kinds of fuckups in the stickings/corners. So, im I just very bad at snapping surfaces and lines in my work flow. Usually in Rhino these mesups dont happen. Maybe there is a plugin no one told me about?

If a laser cutter is going to cut the stainless steel, we just as well engrave some.

To avoid to much large particle dust inside the heatsink, it´s going to be necessary with a mesh type fan filter. These filters are not the most esthetically pleasing thing in the world, so it makes good sense IMO to mount a laser cut grill.    

Rose Pattern

This image does not do anti reflection with 99% transparency justice. But the idea s to clamp down the glass using the aluminium/copper/stainless cover. The cover will continue on the fan side, where it will act fan grill.  

The glass will keep the LED´s dust free and will be easy to clean of. Furthermore, since this concept is aimed at educational purposes,  the glass will also keep curios fingers from poking  possibly hot LED´s.

Two countersunk M4´s should hold the glass firmly in place. 

Since we want the heat to travel through the heatsink and into the cooling air, the isolating layer of air and glass will contribute to this goal. All "used" hot air can be led out if the grow environment. To re-use the heat, there needs to be a devise that can alter the air stream direction, like in a car. This should be relatively straight forward to make using a nema17 or 23. In some cases, like in a Livingroom or  Office space, it may make more sense to went the hot air directly into the space.