This is documenting my journey getting a getting and old Tyco Trucking Set up and running with my kids.
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When I was a kid playing with Tyco US-1, I was always envious of my brother's ability, with his HO train, to have switches, and direct the train onto an alternate track. US-1 only allows you to drive your truck in a single track that loops, and back into "Action Accessories" to pick up and drop off stuff. I always wanted the ability to choose to take a different path with US-1. When I started playing with US-1 with my boys, after only a week my oldest son said he wanted basically the same thing. Did anyone else feel the same?
With the magic of 3D printing (and the budget of an adult), this previously unattainable goal is now within reach. I've modeled the single-lane track connector and started making different sizes and shapes of single-lane track. At it's most basic, the single lane track let's you position the "Action Accessory" buildings more creatively, maybe turning one 90 degrees so it doesn't interfere with something else, or maybe having a winding access road.
But, being able to make single lane track in arbitrary sizes allows a lot more options. In the video below, you can see a setup that allows a truck to transition from one side of the track to the other. This means that you can access stuff on both sides of the track with a single truck. (The big thing to watch out for is to not power both sides of the track at the same time, or you can create a short circuit-- before the kids use it, I probably need to wire up a custom controller to prevent this.)
And if we add to this a specially modified turnout track that is single-lane, we can achieve the ultimate goal of allowing an alternate path for US-1 trucks. You, the driver, can decide what path you want to take.
Alright, so I'm a bit like a kid in a candy shop with this stuff. Another structure I never owned as a kid, but looks kinda interesting is the G.I. Joe missile launcher.
The white plastic on the launch pad pivots at the front, allowing the missile-laden flatbed truck to back up, threading on the missile, and then pushing it upright with the "fin" on the launch tower. Here's a closer shot:
I've seen other posts where folks rightly call out that the launch pad (which is fairly rare) is based on the dump yard, which is insanely common. From what I can tell, it definitely is. the big difference is that the dump yard is raised up right where that pivot point is (I can't find a pic now, but I've seen one of the rocket launcher pad without the top on, and it's completely flat inside, without the hump):
So, back to that whole "kid in a candy shop" analogy. I just bought a missile launcher and missile from e-bay, and it's in the mail. Making a 3D model of the missile & printing copies seems like it should be simple. But what really excites me is: can we make a launcher platform that sits on top of an existing dump yard? Sure, it won't be exactly the same as stock-- that doesn't bother me. But can we make something that seems authentic and true to the original set? I'm thinking that it will need hinge points spread wider, to get around that big hump. And it will still need the fin in the middle to allow it to be pushed upright.
What I find particularly interesting with going this route is that apparently the single hinge point was a really common point of failure and breakage. If the good folks at Tyco would have had more time to iterate on the design, I wonder if they would have ended up with a version with two hinge points off to the side?
And for bonus points: One of the awesome things about US-1 was that most things you could both pick up and drop off. As far as I know, there never was a way to pick up a missile. What might it take to build a missile loading facility?
When looking at e-bay for Tyco US-1 parts, it's quickly apparent that there are a number of plastic parts that commonly break over time. One of the first I ran into was for the box unloader. You can find the main track piece for this very frequently, but there's a special sign that only swings one way that is almost always broken or missing.
One of my big hobbies is 3D printing (and designing 3D parts). As for Tyco US-1, my interest is less in having everything be perfect & stock, and instead in having something that I can feel comfortable having my kids pull out and play with. I expect that some things will get broken, and that needs to be okay. I also love that, with 3D design, I can design something once, and then not only can I re-print it as many times as I want, but others can as well. All it takes is one person to design a bunch of simple replacement parts, and then all of these broken, unusable parts are suddenly more valuable and easily restored.
So yeah, you probably guessed that I designed a replacement sign & sign post:
Functionally, it works great. And while the picture gives you a close-up view where you can see all of the printing imperfections, in practice, they're not so visible, and it works great.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/55299
From this point, I've jumped off and started designing a number of other parts that seem to break often:
The dump yards are super common, but the original walls are frequently warped, have their pegs broken off, or are just flat missing.
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/55300
I picked up a "Motor City Trucking" car carrier loader (I never had one of these as a kid, but it looks cool!) The "backstop bracket" was broken, but easily replaced with a 3D printed part (grey bracket in the middle).
https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/57106
The shed was missing on this Freight Terminal. This was kind of a fun build, as I designed the building to be printed flat, and folded, just like the original building was assembled. It's a surprisingly simple design that allows all of the walls to be printed as a top surface of the 3D print (so they look nice), without the need for gluing anything together. It's interesting how using a similar design that worked so simply with injection molding applies so well to 3D printing.
This whole project started when my brother decided that my kids needed a vintage Tyco Trucking US-1 set for Christmas. We live in different states, so he decided to order a bunch of stuff on e-bay and have it shipped to my house. A few days before Christmas, I started going through the stuff he had ordered, and realized just how much was needed to get these up and running.
The main things I ran into at first were:
Luckily, there are solutions for all of these.
Oh, and there's one more big issue. Early versions of the cars were made with brown gears. Later versions used white gears.
The brown gears are awesome. The white gears, however, haven't stood the test of time so well. Most of them are cracked. I went looking for replacement gears and couldn't find anything. So, this being 2021, I opened up some CAD software and went to work. I'd never designed gears before and designing mating worm and spur gears was an interesting challenge. A few weeks later, I got these back from Shapeways:
For about $20 including shipping, I now had 9 new gear sets. And as it turns out, these work really well. I've been using them in a few cars for about a month with no issues. You can find the STL here: https://www.prusaprinters.org/prints/55302-tyco-trucking-us1-gears
As a side note, before I got these back from Shapeways, I saw that someone else has designed replacement gears and is selling them on e-bay. It's good to see alternate options out there and others keeping this awesome toy working.
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Hi Mike. After re-reading your posts, I have some additional questions and thoughts. Like you, I too have fallen down the rabbit hole and Tyco US1 is on my mind in most of my spare time.
1.) Can you elaborate on printing the single lane track and what you use for the power rails?
2.) Have you considered using DCC to control the vehicles? I don't know much about it but think it could allow the track to be powered full time while allowing multiple vehicles to run.
3.) Would you be willing to print a roof for the fire engine garage and ship it? If so, what would it cost?
Thanks again!
As you fall deeper into the rabbit hole, you might want to join the US-1 Facebook group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/431384073702583)
For the single lane track, I used the metal rails from some other old, broken track. There's a lot of black track out there really cheap.
I haven't done DCC, but there's one guy on that Facebook group who has a massive US-1 setup with a bunch of DCC vehicles.
As for a roof-- I'll see if I can get a decent model on Shapeways. It'll be a little different from the FDM one here, just to optimize for the different process.
Hi Mike. Really like your posts. I recently picked up my Tyco US1 set from my parents house and I am planning on fixing it up so my kids can play with it. I've already cleaned each of the vehicles drivetrains, but they still do not seem to be as fast or as strong as I remember. I am really interested in re-magnetizing the motors, but I do not want to do anything that makes it worse. Can you describe in detail how it is done or possibly create a post/video? Thanks
Yeah, those ceramic magnets do seem to have lost a lot of their oomph over the years. There are a number of things you can do to get the trucks in better shape. In addition to cleaning them, you also likely need new tires (you can find reproductions on ebay). You might need new copper pick-ups, which can be bought from slotcarcentral.com. The track certainly needs to be cleaned & shiny. You do want to avoid using steel wool, as it will leave little steel bits behind that will get sucked into the motor by the magnets. I've used a green kitchen scrubber for most of it, and also a razor blade to scrape some particularly bad spots (and also the edges where the track pieces meet).
All my trucks are from the 1980s and I just used some synthetic oil on the motor ends, cleaned them, sanded the pickup shoes and cleaned with rubbing alcohol finished off with some compressed gas. Take the tires off and let them run sitting still on the track at a low speed for a while. Mine ran like new. If you want to really go down the rabbit hole further, watch by YT video that shows how to upgrade the power supply! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZWfkC1wgCw
As for the motors, I've thrown a pile of neodymium magnets on each motor for a couple of days. This really seems to bring the life back to the cars.
Your pictures are pretty cool. My older brothers had this set and I played with if for quite some time. It was a lot cooler than the normal slot track because these had reverse. I remember that fire truck and that it had a bell it. I also vividly remember having an HO train track crossing that would go through the slot track. Not sure if that is part of this set or not.
Oh yeah-- I was cleaning up one of those fire engines, and the design is incredible! Today, you'd just see a small micro with a speaker for sound, and a blinking LED. But that fire engine is totally mechanical! It has a huge honkin' brass bell inside with mechanical linkages from the wheels to ring it. There's even a one-way clutch that makes the bell only ring when going forward. The way they accomplished the blinking light was genius, imho. The power for the light runs through a shaft that triggers the bell ringer. Then, there's a plastic piece on the shaft, that rotates with it, breaking and re-engaging the connection with every turn. I really should do a video to show it in action-- it's a totally different mindset from today's electronics-centric design. Oh, and those track pieces with an HO train crossing-- yep, they're definitely part of this set. They come up from time to time on ebay, but they're pretty rare. My dad built an awesome train table for both my Tyco trucks and my brother's HO train with a pair of those crossings. And of course, my brother always argued that the trains always had the right of way. He quite enjoyed ramming the trucks, if he could.
Yes, the fire truck is amazing. I happened to find the slot track in my parents basement and got it out tonight to see what worked, and what parts we have. I was able to get one truck to run around an oval track. So a couple of questions:
1. The copper or brass pickups under all of my trucks are worn out. They all have holes. Did you run into this problem and did you buy some online?
2. The worm gear is bad on two trucks, I noticed that someone sells these on ebay.
3. I am going to need some new tires.
For getting the track running good, did you do anything special? I read some folks solder underneath to create good joints. I ran some fine sand paper over the top of the track to knock off the corrosion, and then wiped them down.
I found some of the HO train crossings, they are black track instead of the gray cooler, so we must have bought those separate.
1. Yeah, those pickups definitely seem to be a wear item. You can find a guy selling newly manufactured replacements on ebay, but he also has a brick-and-mortar store and website. I learned too late that it's cheaper to buy off of his website. slotcarcentral.com
2. Yeah, you must have the white nylon gears. A lot of these shrunk and cracked with age. You have two options here. There is the guy who is selling them on e-bay, and from what I hear, they work great. Also, I modeled the gears and posted the model on thingiverse. If you have an SLA 3D printer, you could try your luck with printing it. I has Shapeways run the model in fine detail plastic, and I've been quite happy with the results. The gears on e-bay will come with a nice tube of lube and might be using a plastic that is more suitable for gears. But, they're more expensive if you want more than a couple. (With shapeways, you can print the model that has 9 gear pairs and have it delivered for ~$20, half of which is shipping)
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4732745
3. I bought a pile of silicone replacement tires from e-bay. I believe that slotcarcentral also has some replacement tires that would be suitable, but you might have to ask to make sure you get the right kind. If you're already making the order for the pickups, adding the tires will probably be pretty reasonably priced.For cleaning the tracks, I've pretty much limited my cleaning to green scrubbing pads, which work quite well. For really bad track, I've run a razor blade across the track, and that's cleaned it up really quick. Definitely focus on the connections between one track and the next-- those can be problematic.
Also, if you have a stack of neodymium magnets lying around, I'd strongly recommend taking the motor out of each car, and sticking half the stack of magnets on each side of the motor for a few days. This seemed to really help "recharge" my cars and get them going well. If you're changing the gears, you'll already have it out, so it's the perfect time to do so.
Also, those train crossings are rare and valuable. I think they're going from up to $50-$90 each on e-bay recently. There are gray ones out there, too.
Lastly, if you're interested, there is a facebook group I recently found for Tyco US-1. Some of those folks have taken this stuff to a whole new level!
Become a member to follow this project and never miss any updates
This sounds like me, except I was about 12-14 when I was getting US Trucking stuff. Some of the same issues. Broken sign/post. Two terminals, one missing a roof. The gravel terminal is missing the roof too, but no 3D file for it. Missing backstop on car loader. I'm creating a website to help other people down the road restore sets back to their old glory!
Sneak preview- https://tycous1trucking.com/
The wire was also missing from the airport, so I used a coat hanger and wire snippers and made a replacement. haha!