To program or test ESP-12 or ESP-14 before installation, then plug adapter into breadboard and the ESP into adapter. Unplug when done.
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ESP12FadapterV2_.stlThree parts for 3D printingStandard Tesselated Geometry - 233.73 kB - 12/15/2016 at 09:49 |
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snapshot00.pngThree parts as laid out ready to printPortable Network Graphics (PNG) - 12.84 kB - 12/15/2016 at 09:49 |
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adapter2.pngGlue the parts together like thisPortable Network Graphics (PNG) - 7.50 kB - 12/15/2016 at 09:52 |
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adapter1.pngGlue the parts together like thisPortable Network Graphics (PNG) - 9.10 kB - 12/15/2016 at 09:51 |
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When trying to put a wire into breadboard right next to the adapter, there is not enough room for those pre-made cables with plastic support at the ends. So, I see two possibilities: make the joining block taller [easy] or rotate the ESP block so the ESP is on its side (or end) [harder, but may be more practical in use].
And since another version is on the radar, make the walls of the ESP socket slightly wider at top to allow better jamming in of the ESP module.
3 print the three parts, as shown under Files, and glue them together. Ensure all holes are clean enough to get wire through, say by using a 0.7mm drill bit in a hand-held twisting device.
Insert each of the 11-pin header strips into the base plate, with the short ends being exposed against the supporting block in the middle of the adapter. I heated each pin just enough to melt some solder to each of the short ends, ready for the wire to be soldered next. [Hint: Plug the 2 11-pin headers into a test board to support everything better while doing this step and the next.]
Strip any insulation from the last 2mm of the wire, feed it through the ESP adapter plate and ensure the cleaned end of the wire has some solder sticking to it.
Bend the wire and position it so it lines up with the appropriate pin in the DIL plate, then solder it to its pin. [Hint: thermoplastic melts at a much lower temperature than solder, so keep a heat-sinking grip on the wire so soldering does not melt anything on the ESP plate.] Adjust the wire so it does not touch any adjacent wires. Pull the top end of the wire over the edge of the ESP plate to lock it into place and cut off using side cutters (or similar).
Repeat this until all 22 wires are in place, and not touching any other. To be sure, I checked all connections were isolated using a multimeter.
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Nice, very nice :-)
I was thinking about this, I had the idea to grub some pogo's off an old mobile phone board if I could, but instead, I'm going to borrow your idea if I may. I cant 3D print but bending wire is another hobby lol.
Thanks for the follow and skull on #Jacking Ampy, much appreciated. I hope it was useful.
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Great work.
However, if you have to test 100s of ESP modules it will be a true pain to use this method, instead here we got a Wemos board, unmounted the ESP-12F module on it, and added SMD pin-headers instead, that way we just put the ESP-12F for testing, connect it to computer and check if it is working!
Good job though.