Coil Winding

The basic assembly process is the same for each side.

Create a free end of ~60mm of wire and wrap 200 turns of wire around the central former of the side element, trying to ensure that the windings are tight and evenly spaces. Due to hand wiring there will be some variation in the coil due to turns, wire spacing and overlapping but not enough to significantly effect operation.

Slide a 6mm tube wrapped with tape into the centre of the former wedging it in place makes it easier to hold and wind the coil.

Once complete secure the free end and cut the wire leaving 60mm and tape to the back of the side element.

The free end lengths of 60mm are to allow easy manipulation during assembly and test and can be trimmed as required as the side pairs are fitted. Better at this stage for wires to be too long rather than too short.

Apply clear lacquer or varnish to the coil to hold the winding in place.

LED Wiring

The LED's are held together on a wire frame made up of 2 U shaped sections formed from tinned copper wire.

Using one of the sides as a template and using pliers to form the wires.

One section follows the outer perimeter of the side aligned to the holes. Try to keep this as close to the holes as possible, to reduce the likelyhood of contact with neighbouring sides when fully assembled.

The other section aligns to the perimeter of the side but on the opposite location of the holes closest to the coil former.

In order not to damage the 3D printed side whilst soldering a template was created by tracing around the edge of the side element and the holes on card.

Decide on the polarity orientation of the LED's and maintain this for all the LED's on all of the sides for consistency and to aid troubleshooting in the event of issues.

Numbers 2, 4 and 6 are the simplest configurations as they do not use the central hole.

Position and tape one of the U shaped wires on the card aligned with the hole positions and sit the LED's to be soldered in the hole positions and solder in place.

Position and tape the other U shaped wire on the card aligned with the LED's and solder to complete the attachment.

Cut the excess wire leaving two parallel 5mm stubs, these will be used to connect the flexible wire from the appropriate coil.

Test with a meter in diode/continuity mode, the LED's should illuminate (verify correct lead orienation from the meter). If they all do not light check for shorts and/or opens with a meter.

Separately or inaddition to testing with a meter verify operation with a coil.

Test the LED's on the frame work by clipping the ends to the coil and place the coil in the centre of the wireless charger all the LED's should flash. If they all do not flash check for shorts and/or opens with a meter.

A dry assembly of side elements prior to finally connecting the coils can be tested with a meter to check for shorts with neighbouring sides as it is easier to make adjustment before the coils are wired.

The same process applies for the numbers 3 and 5 with the exception of the centre LED which is attached by flexible wires which are looped via the channel under the coil.

For number one the LED is soldered directly to the associated coil wires.

If everything is fine at this stage apply clear lacquer or varnish to the framework to insulate the wiring.

Assembly

The side elements are attached to holes in a central cube by the top rim of the coil formers.

Assembly is conducted in pairs.

Attach the number 6 side to the central cube and directly opposite to this attach the number 1 side.

Trim the free ends of the coil wires to reduce the wire length to minimise stray coupling.

Strip and tin the free ends with solder.

Solder the number 6 side coil to the number 1 side LED.

Solder the number 1 side coil to the number 6 side LED frame work.

Test the two sides operate independently by placing each side in turn on the wireless charger.

When the number 6 side is placed on the charger, the number 1 side LED should flash.

When the number 1 side is placed on the charger, the number 6 side LED's should flash.

If there are no issues secure the sides in place with glue, ensuring these are square and parallel so as to prevent issues when fitting in the hollow cube to protect the assembly.

Test fit with the hollow cube to ensure a smooth fit and file any rough or high areas.

Next select another number pair 5 and 2 and repeat the assembly and test process.

As more sides are added ensure that the proximity of the frame work outer wire does not short with neighbouring sides.

This will be evident during the testing process if sides not horizontally aligned and in contact with the charger are illuminated during testing.

If necessary reapply the lacquer/varnish and/or insulate the frame work with a strip of clear tape.

Repeat the process for number pair 4 and 3.

Once all the sides are in place and the cube is complete, test to ensure all the sides behave independently and remedy any issues if found.

The size of this assembled is: 20(L) x 20(W) x 20(H) mm

Hollow Cube Fitting

The purpose of the hollow cube is to protect, support and strengthen the elements of the die, diffuse the light from the LED's and enhance the randomisation as no pips are visible on the exterior.

It just remains to finally put it in place in the hollow cube and fit the lid. The lid is a push fit and should stay in place.

But for added security, subject to use apply a little glue around the rim if required. The downside is that this will prevent easy removal should this be required.