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NOOBIX IOT

The PCB on this project is called "NOOBIX" and gives you full IOT control for anything.

electronoobsELECTRONOOBS
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The PCB on this project is called "NOOBIX" and gives you full IOT control for anything. A lamp, a fan, your stereo speakers, your printer, anything you want. With a simple online push of a button from anywhere in the world, you can turn ON or OFF any device that works at 220V AC. This project is based on a previous tutorial where I show you how to use the ESP32 and the HTTP library in Arduino IDE. The PCB has its own voltage regulator from 220V AC to 12V, 5V and 3.3V DC, it has a solid state relay to control 220V AC and 2 amps of current, it has pads for a very small ESP32 and it has the main input and output. Is very easy to use so in the video let me show you how to create an IOT control using this PCB and control any device around your house from anywhere in the world with internet connection. By the way, in the future we might make this PCB also work with Alexa so stay tuned for that.

Website_files.zip

x-zip-compressed - 136.98 kB - 02/29/2024 at 11:38

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Noobix_GERBERs.zip

x-zip-compressed - 62.36 kB - 02/29/2024 at 11:38

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Noobix_Firmware.zip

x-zip-compressed - 1.77 kB - 02/29/2024 at 11:38

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  • EXTRA UPDATE - DANGEROUS?

    ELECTRONOOBS • 02/29/2024 at 11:44 • 0 comments

    READ THIS:

    ● Some of you guys on the community commented that the AC high voltage clearance is too low. YES, YOU ARE RIGHT! I usuall add copper plane to all my PCBs and that was a mistake made ina hurry. So even if you see a bad clearance in the video, the final PCB you can download from below, has all the errors fixed with enough clearance. For a 1.6mm thick OPCB, the recomended clearance on the same layer for 220VAC is 2.5mm or above. Now all the high voltage is separated on one side with decent clearance.

    ● Other mentioned parts were about the connectors that they can't handle more than 150V and 6A. Actuall, the connectors I've used were rated for 300VAC and 10A but maybe the supplier is a liar so I can't know for sure. Also, the maximum current I say in the vidoe thos PCB is rated for is 2A. That's because the SSR could only handle that so we would never get to above 6A. If you do that, is your mistake!

    ● You also mentioned that the exposed tracks and pads are dangerous to handle! Whaaaaat? Why would you handle such a PCB while connected to voltage? To use such PCB, you should first cut off power from your entire house by lowering the safety switches. Then connect the PCB to power and load. Then place the PCB inside of an insulated plastic case. And then you turn the power back ON. You should never touch the exposed PCB, are you crazy? I say that in the video. A lot of other commercial IOT PCBs have exposed pads/trackas but you should never touch them!

    Another thing that was mentioned was the voltage regulator module. The module is ok because it has an insulated connection through a transformer so that’s not a problem. But yes, the module has high voltage and is soldered a bit too close to the PCB (actually it has around 2mm of clearance which sould be ok). For that we have two options: Add a plastic separator in between the module and the PCB, or maybe just solder the module in mid-air. For example this below is an IOT board that I bought and works with Alexa (is a commercial PCB). This has the regulator module here and the IOT circuit on the other side on another PCB. They are merge together with some pins of a few mm to add insulation. I could do the same with my PCB and like that we have enough clearance. So, problem solved.

    So for those who are exaggerating and saying that this will kill people and insulting me!!! Please tell me how? The only way to kill someone here is if you touch the PCB while powered on. And you should never do that. And that applies to so many other PCBs. You should never touch a powered relay, it has exposed pads. Never touch a power supply neither. Never touch a converter and so on. These are all dangerous to touch if powered on.

    The only thing I could imagine that could happen before I’ve fixed the clearance, is that the high voltage could have jumped to the low voltage blowing up your microcontroller. And since the tracks are 0.22mm they would acts as fuse and just burn out. So my only concern was related to fire and not being electrocuted. But even so, if you were right there are ways to tell me that. That’s why I want to talk about constructive comments. If you see an error in my videos, you don’t have to call me names. You can just say which is the error and if you can, you could even say a solution to that error. That’s constructive and it will improve the project and help the community. Saying that I’m a s***id f**k and should delete my channel, is not constructive!!

View project log

  • 1
    Part 1 - The PCB

    What’s up my friends, welcome back. This below is the PCB that I’ve designed for my project. I’ve tried to make it as small as I could so it could fit inside of a basic wall electric box. This project works at 220V so make sure you stay safe and never touch the exposed wires.
    Since it works at 220V AC and the ESP32 needs 3 to 5V DC, I’m using a voltage converter module. That is very small and will give us a very steady 12V DC and 1 amp of current which is more than enough. Then, on the other side I’m using two linear regulators to get 5V and 3.3V. The ESP32 is controlling an SSR or solid-state relay. And that relay is connected to the output where we can connect our load. I’ve placed some pins around in case that you want to connect anything else to the ESP32. So guys go and download the GERBER files for the PCB from this post. Then go to PCBWAY.COM and click the quote button. Add the size of the PCB (71 x 30mm), the amount of boards that you want and select a color. Since the green one is made faster, I selected the green solder mask. Save to cart and on the next page click the upload button. Now upload the GERBER files you’ve just downloaded from below my video. Make the order and receive my PCB in just a few days. Give them a quick inspection, but as always they look great.

  • 2
    Part 2 - What we need

    Let's see all the needed parts and also check the schematic for this project below in order to know where to connect each part. We need the 220V to 12V regulator, the solid-state relay, an ESP32S smd version, some SMD capacitors and resistors, a diode, a small BJT transistor, some LEDs as well and the input and output screw terminals. This animation above should be the finished PCB Later we will see how to connect the PCB to mains input and the 220V AC load.

  • 3
    Part 3 - PCB Schemati

    The schematic is quite easy. The basic configuration of the ESP32 chip with pullups to 3.3V for Enable and RST pins. The converter module give us 12V so we connect that in series with the AMS1117 regulators of 5 and 3.3V. The Relay circuit is simple. We use a BJT to connect pin 4 of the SSR to GND so we turn it ON. That's how when the D12 pin is HIGH, the NPN is ON so the Relay as well. We also have the UART pads for programming.

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