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Amply - A $10 desktop BT amplifier you'll love

Building a great sounding amplifier for your desk on the cheap

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Amply is a compact, high-quality audio amplifier and Bluetooth receiver that can be built from roughly $10 worth of widely available parts.

Designed for desktop speakers, it delivers up to 2×10 W into 8 Ω loads while running from an ordinary USB-C power adapter. The entire design uses common, easy-to-source components, making it practical to build almost anywhere.

Despite its low cost, Amply offers surprisingly strong audio performance: THD below 0.015%, excellent linearity, and a flat response extending down to 20 Hz for deep bass, clean mids, and detailed highs.

The project includes all the files you need to make a PCB for this project. This will increase the cost, but not by much—I had mine made by PCBWay for around $10 shipped.

Amply is a small “desktop” amplifier designed to live on your workbench or computer desk and deliver roughly 10 Wpp per channel from a Bluetooth audio source. Paired with a good set of small 8 Ω speakers, it produces surprisingly high-quality sound at very low cost.

The design is based on the venerable NE5532 op-amp, which, despite being nearly 50 years old, still offers excellent audio performance at an extremely affordable price.

Amply runs from a single USB-C power supply; on my desk, it is powered by a SJÖSS charger I picked up from IKEA for less than $5. (This doesn't provide the full 10W output, but it's more than enough for typical listening levels, even for someone who is pushing 50).

I originally designed Amply to solve a practical problem: it is surprisingly difficult to find an inexpensive Bluetooth amplifier that also sounds genuinely good. At the same time, it makes a great learning project for anyone interested in amplifier design, since it uses a simple Class AB topology and a handful of common through-hole components that are easy to source from Amazon or a local electronics supplier.

What is a “desktop” amplifier anyway?

To me, a good audio amplifier has to satisfy two criteria: it should perform well from a technical standpoint, and it should fit its intended use case.

For the technical part, the metrics I care about most are total harmonic distortion (THD) and linearity, and signal-to-noise ratio (SNR). Low distortion, predictable frequency response, and low noise matter far more than most of the mythology that surrounds consumer audio.

In simulation, Amply achieves roughly 0.009% THD at full output power, with intentionally gentle high-frequency roll-off above about 10 kHz to keep small desktop speakers from sounding overly harsh. I do not have instrumentation good enough to fully validate those figures in hardware, but subjectively, paired with a decent set of speakers, the amplifier sounds exceptionally clean.

The 10 Wpp output target was a deliberate design choice. Keeping the power level modest makes it possible to achieve very good performance using inexpensive, widely available components. In practice, it's already far louder than what I would normally want at a desk: loud enough to annoy other family members elsewhere in the house, and uncomfortable to sit next to at maximum volume. For this kind of near-field listening setup, additional power would mostly go unused.

PCBs

While it's not impossible to hand-wire Amply on protoboard, the project includes all the files you need to make a 100x100 mm PCB for the amplifier. This will increase the costs a little, but also bring lots of benefits, such as a ground plane that will reduce the likelihood of picking up stray hums from the environment.

The PCB you see in the photo was made by PCBway and cost about $10 shipped. While they are not the cheapest, the quality of the PCB is very good, and they very kindly contacted me to inquire about some of the… less conventional choices I had to make to fit the design in two layers, just to make sure that the designed had not accidentally been mangled in the process.

Another side benefit of having a PCB is that it's much easier to fit the project into a proper 3D-printed enclosure. You are, of course, free to design your own, but I had to make one for myself, too, and so I included it in the Github repo as well.

Oh, in case you're wondering: PCBWay is not sponsoring me. I had never used them before, and this seemed like a good opportunity to try out their service.

Acknowledgments

Much of what I know about amplifier design comes from Rod Elliott’s excellent Elliott Sound Products website, which is an absolute treasure trove of information on audio electronics. If you are interested in learning more about amplifier theory and design, I highly recommend spending some time reading through his articles—especially...

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  • 1 × NE5532 Amplifier and Linear ICs / Operational Amplifiers
  • 1 × BD139 NPN transistor
  • 1 × BD140 PNP transistor
  • 1 × 1N4148 Diode
  • 1 × LM7805 Linear Voltage Regulators

View all 7 components

  • A deeper dive into the amplifier design

    Marco Tabini3 days ago 0 comments



    It has occurred to me that, in the Design Walkthrough, I never really explained how the amplifier itself works from an overall design perspective. I thought it would be useful to do that, so here we are.

    To understand why Amply is designed the way it is, we need to start with our desired result. At the output of the amplifier, we ultimately want to drive a certain amount of power into the speakers. Assuming that our desired power is 10W, and that the speakers have an impedance of 8Ω, we can calculate the required voltage and current using the following formulas:

    This means that our amplifier has two distinct requirements: It needs to take our input signal (which, at full volume, is around 1Vrms) and amplify it to around 9Vrms, and it needs to be able to provide around 1.12A of current to the speakers.

    In addition, we also want to:

    • Present a high impedance at the input, so that we don't load down the Bluetooth receiver.
    • Manage the amplification loop so that we can control its gain, and prevent it from distorting the signal or going into uncontrolled oscillation.

    There is no single device that can do all these things at once, so we need to break down the problem into smaller pieces. Hence the use of an op amp, which provides the voltage gain, and a power stage, which provides the current gain. The op amp also has a very high input impedance, and can use negative feedback to control the gain and stability of the amplifier.

    Voltage gain

    As mentioned in the design walkthrough, the op amp is configured as an inverting amplifier. This is needed because, while the input signal includes both a positive and negative component, our amplifier is powered by a single supply, which means that the output can only swing in one direction relative to ground.

    We solve this problem by creating a “virtual ground” at the mid-point of the supply voltage, and then allowing the output to swing around that point. The inverting configuration has the distinct advantage of allowing us to inject the virtual ground directly into the non-inverting input of the op amp, which means that we don't need to use a separate buffer stage to create this signal.

    The gain of the inverting amplifier is determined by the ratio of the feedback resistor (RV1) to the input resistor (R1):

    The negative sign indicates that the output is inverted relative to the input—for all practical purposes, we can ignore the sign in our application, so long as both the left and right channels are inverted in the same way.

    In our case, the maximum possible gain with a 50kΩ feedback resistor and a 1kΩ input resistor is:

    Current gain

    While the op amp has no trouble providing the voltage gain we need, it really cannot provide more than a few tens of milliamps of current, which is nowhere near the 1.12A we need to drive the speakers. If we plugged its output directly into the speakers, the only sound we would hear is probably that of the op amp going up in smoke.

    The power stage of the amplifier is responsible for providing the necessary current to drive the speakers. In our design, we use a Class AB push-pull configuration, which consists of two complementary transistor pairs (one NPN-based and one PNP-based) that work together to amplify the current. I have already mentioned how this works, so I don't want to spend too much time on it here.

    The key point, however, is that the power stage primarily amplifies current, not voltage. As you can see here, we need to use two transistors for each leg of the push-pull stage because power transistors typically have a much lower gain than small-signal transistors like the 2N3904 and 2N3906. By using a compound pair, we effectively multiply the gain of the two transistors, which allows us to achieve the necessary current gain to drive the speakers. The Sziklai configuration is particularly advantageous in our case because it requires less base current than a Darlington pair, which means loading the op amp less and...

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  • Drawing first smoke

    Marco Tabini6 days ago 0 comments

    In the Design Walkthrough, I mentioned that the R15 resistor on the output stage of the amplifier was a compromise between the needs of the circuit and the available board space. Good design practice would have been to use two separate resistors, one for each branch of the push-pull output stage, but I wanted to fit everything on a 100×100 mm PCB to stay within the size for which most PCB manufacturers charge a flat promotional rate.

    In this update, I wanted to dig a bit more into this particular part of the circuit and show you that, even though a 0.33 Ω resistor may seem like an insignificant component, it is actually a critical part of the design.

    Transistors are weird, man

    Transistors are inherently “unique” devices: even if you pick two transistors of the same type, and even if they come from the same batch, they will have different characteristics—sometimes wildly so. This is because of the way they are manufactured: they are made by doping silicon with impurities, and the exact amount and distribution of these impurities can vary from one transistor to another.

    To add to the problem, the characteristics of a specific transistor also change based on the operating conditions. For example, the gain of a transistor (the ratio of the output current to the input current) can vary with temperature, and it can also vary with the amount of current flowing through the transistor. Left unchecked, this not only makes it difficult to design a circuit that works reliably, but it can also lead to a phenomenon called “thermal runaway,” where the transistor gets hotter, thus increasing its gain, which in turn causes it to draw more current, which makes it even hotter, and so on until the transistor is destroyed.

    Thus, the golden rule of transistor circuit design is that the reliability of the circuit does not depend on the characteristics of the transistors; instead, the passive components around them are designed to ensure that the circuit operates within a specific envelope, is stable, and so forth.

    Degenerates live in your circuit!

    One of the most common ways to ensure that a transistor operates within a specific envelope is to use a technique called “degeneration.” This involves adding a resistor in series with the emitter (for a BJT transistor) or the source (for a MOSFET) of the transistor. (The term “degeneration” comes from early vacuum tube and transistor amplifier theory, where it referred to a mechanism that degrades or reduces the gain of an amplifying device through feedback.)

    The resistor creates a voltage drop that is proportional to the current flowing through the transistor. This means that if the current increases, the voltage drop across the resistor also increases, which in turn reduces the voltage across the transistor and thus reduces its effective gain. This negative feedback mechanism helps to stabilize the operating point of the transistor and makes it less sensitive to variations in its characteristics. Obviously, the resistor also limits the maximum current that can flow through the output stage and dissipates power of its own, so you typically choose a small value: large enough to prevent thermal runaway, but small enough not to waste too much power or reduce the efficiency of your circuit.

    (Note that this is not the same kind of “negative feedback” that is commonly used in amplifier design, where a portion of the output signal is fed back to the input to reduce distortion and improve linearity. Degeneration is a form of local negative feedback that is applied directly to the transistor itself, rather than to the overall amplifier circuit.)

    In general, you want each branch of the push-pull stage to have its own degeneration resistor so that each output transistor can be stabilized independently. In our case, R15 is therefore not a true degeneration resistor; instead, its role is primarily...

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  • Design walkthrough

    Marco Tabini05/06/2026 at 04:41 0 comments

    Amply uses a very common design—in fact, the project constraints more or less require the use of a fairly old-fashioned amplifier topology that is far less common in modern designs.

    Basic design philosophy

    Despite its low price tag, Amply was not designed primarily to minimize cost. In several places, the design is intentionally conservative in order to maximize performance and reliability. The idea is that you should be able to assemble the amplifier with minimal technical knowledge and still end up with something that sounds great and is built to last.

    In practice, a fair number of components can be omitted while still producing a perfectly good-sounding amplifier, if at the cost of reducing the design's safety margins and potentially resulting in an amplifier that is less robust or more prone to instability or failure.

    For those feeling particularly adventurous, I will point out which components are required for basic operation and which ones can probably be omitted without too much risk.

    Power

    Amply can be powered either from a DC supply between 9 V and 30 V or from a USB-C power supply. In the latter case, any USB Power Delivery (USB-PD) profile of 9 V or higher will work.

    Using USB-C power requires a small USB-PD trigger module that negotiates the appropriate voltage from the power supply. I use a generic module purchased from AliExpress, which cost about $1.30 at the time of writing.

    A pair of Schottky diodes (D1 and D2) prevent backfeeding between the two power sources and provide reverse voltage protection. They also introduce a small voltage drop—typically around 0.3 V—but ensure that the amplifier is protected if both power sources are connected simultaneously or if the user commits a wiring “oopsie.”

    If you intend to power Amply from only a single source, the diodes are unnecessary and can be replaced with wire bridges to eliminate the voltage drop and slightly improve efficiency and available supply headroom. Likewise, if you do not plan to use USB-C power, the USB-PD trigger module can simply be omitted and the DC supply connected directly to the circuit.

    Single-rail woes

    Audio signals are AC, which means the amplifier must be able to process signals that swing both positive and negative. One of Amply's design constraints, however, is that it operates from a single positive supply rail for the sake of simplicity.

    To work around this limitation, the amplifier creates a virtual ground at half the supply voltage and references the audio path to that midpoint. With a 12 V supply, for example, the signal reference point sits at 6 V above the negative rail. This allows the amplifier to process signals that swing both above and below the midpoint, effectively providing up to roughly ±6 V of signal swing in theory.

    The upside of this approach is a much simpler power supply design. The downside is that the available output voltage swing is reduced compared to a true split-rail supply, which in turn limits the maximum output power. For Amply's intended use case, this is a perfectly acceptable tradeoff.

    The virtual ground is generated using a simple voltage divider (R3 and R4). In this amplifier topology, the midpoint reference only supplies very small signal-level currents associated with the op amp input and feedback network, so there is no real need to buffer it with an active circuit despite its relatively high impedance.

    I also added a 10 µF capacitor (C17) to reduce noise and lower the AC impedance of the reference node. Realistically, the amplifier would probably still function perfectly well without it.

    5 V regulator

    U2 is a bog-standard 5 V linear regulator that provides power for the Bluetooth module. Since the Bluetooth circuitry only draws a modest amount of current, a simple linear regulator is perfectly adequate here, provided the input voltage is not excessively high.

    The LM7805 can technically tolerate fairly high input voltages, but power dissipation quickly becomes...

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Discussions

Ken Yap wrote 6 days ago point

It's hard to write this without appearing critical. Firstly I appreciate the explanation you have penned about circuit operation. That would clarified a lot to me decades ago when I had the amplifier building bug.

In this era though, I wonder if you have listened to one of those compact class D amplifiers described in my project #Playing music remotely with bluetooth at the same price point. In my bedroom I have one connected to my former living room speakers and driven from my workhorse. I have no test equipment to measure the quality but I cannot fault the rendition. I would say my speakers are the limiting factor.

It seems that linearity which used to be achieved by careful design in the analog domain, is now trivially obtained by crystal frequency accuracy in the digital domain, an ongoing trend.

But maybe I should build an analog amp to do something with the parts in my junk^wspare box. 😉

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Marco Tabini wrote 5 days ago point

Funny, I was having this exact discussion with someone at my local makerspace the other night :-)

Modern Class-D amplifiers are indeed very good, and if I were specifying an amplifier for a project that is “not an amplifier,” that's probably what I would use as well, if for no other reason that the part count is minimal and they require no manual calibration. Perhaps some audiophile purist types might object, but there's nothing wrong with that approach as far as I'm concerned.

Amply scratches a different itch, though. A highly integrated amplifier chip doesn't teach you much about amplifier design, even of the class D variety. Amply is a fully discrete circuit that you can build, probe, modify, break, and repair, with the added benefit of being a useful product that sounds really good. 

Even if you never build an amplifier ever again, putting one together involves a bunch of techniques—negative feedback, transistor pairs, emitter degeneration, capacitive coupling, virtual grounds, and more—that are useful in many other situations.

So, that's all there is. Two perfectly valid approaches, and one doesn't invalidate the other. Cheers!

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