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Original ZX Spectrum refurbished

Repairing and refurbishing an original ZX Spectrum issue 2

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A friend of mine asked me to check out a ZX Spectrum he'd just bought on eBay UK. When I was a teenager in the late 1980s, I had a Soviet Spectrum clone assembled by my dad, which essentially predetermined my career in IT, so it was a kind of historical moment for me… Furthermore, this project inspired me to design my own Spectrum-compatible computer, which I also wrote about here on Hackaday.
So, this is the story of restoration an original ZX Spectrum issue 2.

I already knew that trying to connect it to the TV via RF had failed, so I tried using the signal before the RF modulator and feeding it into the composite video input. The result was as follows:

This means the ULA is reading video memory and outputting a video signal, but the processor or ROM are not working.

The board looked fine; we can see the "spider mod" over the processor, as well as several other improvements recommended by Sinclair in the original service manual, mostly related to the power supply:

I checked the processor pins with an oscilloscope. Some address pins were changing, but pins A14 and A15 were constantly at +1.5 V, so the ULA wasn't outputting a ROMCS signal. To make sure it wasn't a ULA issue, I installed the ULA on an additional socket, which allowed me to disconnect any ULA pin from the board and test the signals on the ULA and the board separately:

Lines A14 and A15 still had +1.5 VDC. The clock signal from the ULA was normal, and the processor still showed some activity.

While I was checking everything with an oscilloscope here and there, something changed. The processor stopped working; it was dead and cold. I don't know what happened, and I don't know if my actions were the cause.

In any case, the processor is definitely dead now, so I decided to connect another processor in parallel using an edge connector and see what happens:

Now the video was a bit different:

It appears to be an incomplete memory check during the Spectrum's normal power-on initialization. I checked the data bus and found the cause::

This memory chip is dead and it's data pin is always high. Other memory chips are ok, i.e.:

So, I've replaced bad memory chip:

.... and CPU:

It would be probably better to replace all the memory chips...

But when I turned it On, it worked!

It was somewhat of a miracle to see this logo again after more than 35 years...

However, the image brightness and overall quality were poor, so I continued working on it.

A source of the video signals Y, U and V is ULA and service manual described the signals properties quite clearly, especially Y:

In reality, things were much worse:

"Change IC1" was the best option but IC1 is ULA and I didn't have the spare one :)

I don't know why the ULA Y output is so poor. Probably the chip is worn out because of its age...

Anyway, I had to do something with this. Looking at the circuit diagram, there is some kind of a mixer and then an emitter follower for the composite video signal right before RF modulator. Resistor R52 seems to be responsible for the output voltage Vp-p so I put a similar one in parallel to decrease its resistance and increase the peak-to-peak voltage accordingly:

I also replaced capacitor C65 just in case, but I don't think it made any difference. Another change, which you can see in the picture, was VR1 and VR2, because the originals were unstable:

Finally, a very known "video mod" which is a capacitor at video output to TV:

As a result, the picture on the TV is much better:

Well, this photo was taken after the refurbishing was completed... 

At this stage, I still had to test the cassette interface, sound, and keyboard. I'll describe this in the project logs.

  • Speaker

    Vlad08/05/2026 at 16:36 0 comments

    The speaker was rusty, marked with "X" sign by somebody and dead:

    According to the schematic of issue 2, the speaker is driven directly by the ULA output through two diodes to reduce the ULA output voltage, as I understand it:

    Some sources said the speaker impedance should be 40 ohms, others 200 ohms. In any case, I couldn't find a replacement speaker other than 8 ohms. So I decided to use it in series with a 39 ohm resistor and add an S9013 transistor as an emitter follower, similar to the circuit of issue 3:

    The new speaker and additional elements are a perfect fit:

    The resulting volume level is completely good.

  • Keyboard

    Vlad08/01/2026 at 11:57 0 comments

    The keyboard wasn't working due to damage to the membrane near both ends of the connectors. I initially tried cutting away the damaged areas, but that didn't help due to the poor condition of the conductive tracks. So I bought some conductive silver-based paint and repaired them:

    This helped, and now the keyboard worked, except for two keys, "B" and "N," as far as I remember. It turned out that the conductive track inside the membrane was damaged, and it seemed impossible to repair... But I tried it anyway:

    It took me a few days because silver paint needs at least 24 hours to dry.

    Finally I got it to work:

    However, I then discovered a newly-produced membrane on a German website:

    This is certainly much better than 40-years old, of course:

    All that was left to do was clean the rubber keys with isopropyl alcohol:

View all 2 project logs

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