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Game Boy Advance XL

A scaled-up version of the original Game Boy, but not really; the hardware is an SBC running Windows.

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Greetings, everyone, and welcome back.

This is Game Boy Advance XL, a scaled-up version of the original Game Boy Advance but with a twist.

It's powered by a DFRobot LattePanda Mu N305 single-board computer, paired with its Lite carrier board and a massive 15-inch HDMI display salvaged from a PC monitor.

It's powered by a DFRobot LattePanda Mu N305 single-board computer, paired with its Lite carrier board and a massive 15-inch HDMI display salvaged from a PC monitor.

A few months ago, I built the Motorola DynaTAC Max, a giant replica of the iconic Motorola DynaTAC phone. That project got me hooked on building oversized versions of everyday devices, and I knew I wanted to take on something even more ambitious: the Game Boy Advance, in this case.

I've been working on this project for nearly three months, and trust me, it took a lot longer than I expected.

So, what exactly is the Game Boy Advance XL?

It's a giant Game Boy replica that I built from scratch using 3D printing. The body consists of multiple individually printed parts, all assembled to create this ridiculously oversized handheld console.

But unlike the original GBA, this one is powered by a DFRobot LattePanda Mu with an Intel N305 processor, paired with its Lite carrier board and a massive 15-inch HDMI display salvaged from a PC monitor.

For the controls, I'm using a Raspberry Pi Pico W configured as a Bluetooth game controller. Every button is mapped in Steam to work as the D-pad, A, B, Select, and Start buttons.

There's no onboard battery yet, so the entire device runs on an external 12V, 4A power adapter.

And what can it play?

Well, obviously, we have Pokémon Emerald running through RetroArch, but thanks to the LattePanda Mu, this thing can handle modern PC games, too! I've already tested Fallout: New Vegas, Bayonetta, Nier Automata, and Minecraft on it.

So, this isn't just a giant Game Boy Advance. It's basically a Windows PC disguised as a classic handheld console!

In this article, I'll walk you through the complete build process, from designing and 3D printing the massive enclosure to setting up the hardware, configuring the controls, and getting games running on this oversized beast.

Let's get started.

GAMEBOY ADVANCE

Released in 2001, the Game Boy Advance was a 32-bit handheld gaming console developed and manufactured by Nintendo. It succeeded the original Game Boy and Game Boy Color, bringing a significant leap in graphics, processing power, and gameplay to portable gaming.

The original Game Boy had already established Nintendo as a dominant force in handheld gaming, but the GBA took things to another level. Its landscape-oriented design, shoulder buttons, and improved display made it feel much closer to a home console experience that you could carry in your pocket.

The Game Boy Advance was powered by a 32-bit ARM7TDMI processor running at approximately 16.78 MHz, accompanied by 256 KB of external DRAM and 96 KB of VRAM. It also included 32 KB of internal work RAM and 96 KB of internal graphics memory, along with dedicated hardware for 2D graphics and audio.

Despite its modest specifications by today's standards, the GBA was capable of impressive visual effects, colourful environments, detailed sprites, and surprisingly complex games. Its hardware supported a resolution of 240 × 160 pixels and a colour palette of up to 32,768 colors, making it a substantial upgrade over its predecessors.

One of the most impressive features was its backward compatibility with Game Boy and Game Boy Color cartridges, allowing players to enjoy an enormous library of existing games alongside the new GBA titles.

Even today, the GBA remains popular among retro gaming enthusiasts, collectors, and hobbyists. Its extensive game library and relatively straightforward hardware make it an excellent platform for emulation and DIY gaming projects.

And that brings us to my own project. I always wanted a Game Boy Advance when I was younger but never got one. Years later, instead of buying the original console, I decided to build my own version; only this time, I made it absolutely massive!

HARDWARE- LATTEPANDA MU N305

For the brain of this project, I'm using the LattePanda Mu compute module with the Intel Core i3-N305...

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PART 4.stl

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D PAD BUTTON.stl

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R Switch Locking part.stl

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START BUTTON.stl

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SEL BUTTON.stl

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  • 1
    MAIN BODY ASSEMBLY

    We start the assembly process by positioning all the 3D-printed body sections in their correct orientations. For this step, the parts are placed upside down on the table, with the front face pointing downwards so we can access the mounting holes from the back.

    Using M3 nuts and bolts, we fasten each section to the neighboring parts, gradually joining all the individual pieces together. The idea is to secure every section tightly so that the separate prints form one continuous enclosure.

    Once all the nuts and bolts are tightened, we end up with a single, solid Game Boy Advance XL body.

  • 2
    BODY FILLER PREP WORK

    For filler material, we are using a 3M automotive two-part filler, which consists of a filler and a hardener.

    Wearing protective gloves and a dust mask is mandatory for this step, so make sure you put them on before proceeding.

    We begin by adding 2% hardener and mixing it thoroughly with filler; we get a compound that can be used to fill gaps, layer lines, and other imperfections on our printed body.

    The filler process is an important step before painting. Applying filler to 3D prints, then sanding the surface smooth, followed by primer and paint, results in a finish so clean that it no longer looks 3D-printed at all.

  • 3
    BODY FILLER PROCESS

    We start by applying filler to the joints between the 3D-printed parts. The idea is to fill any visible gaps, seams, or uneven areas across the enclosure. The filler gets into these gaps and creates a more uniform surface.

    We also apply filler to any areas that aren't perfectly even. Once the filler has dried, we'll sand it down to remove the excess material and smooth out the surface, making the joints less visible and giving the entire enclosure a cleaner, more finished look.

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