How to modify the low-cost "Tusotek 200W DC/DC Boost Converter module" to be a Constant Current controlled converter (boost LED driver)
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It's very easy to modify this converter to be constant-current controlled:
You need following parts:
As you can see in the schematic image, not very much to do.
If you need further help, please write :-)
I tested this setup already with following currents and LED power:
You can adjust the current with the poti, if it has the lowest resistor, the current is also the lowest possible one. Due to the FP1539 feedback circuit, the controller regulates until there are 0.5V at the feedback pin.
If you have a 0R poti, this eqals to:
I = U / R = 0.5V / <R-shunt> = 0.5V / 0.68Ohm = 0.735A
Of course, a lower shunt value increases the minimum current, but it also decreases the power losses on the resistor:
Pshunt = I out ² * Rshunt = 1.75A² * 0.68Ohm = 2.1W -> nice, within the specs :-)
If you want to increase the efficiency, decrease the Rshunt value.
For example: If I know, that I only use about 1.5A (or 1.75A+/- a little bit adjustment), let's try different values:
I = U/R = 0.5V / 0.47Ohm = 1.06A min -> Pshunt = 1.75² * 0.47 = 1.43W (only 70% of the previous value)
next value
I = U/R = 0.5V/0.33Ohm = 1.51Amin -> Pshunt = 1.75² * 0.33 = 1.01W (even more efficient)
Ok, for my setup, I will modify my CC controller to support only 1.5A+, but it reduces the wasted heat by 1W (2% :-)).
Next time, I will write about the whole feedback circuit in detail!
The heart of this module is a FP5139 Asynchronous Boost Controller.
It's packaged in TSSOP8 and has different features we have to deal with:
Basically, this booster module is designed like the Application Information in Figure 14 of the FP5139 datasheet.
Some minor modifications compared to this app note:
If you look at the picture, following colors correspond to these parts of the app note:
orange: FP5139 chip
yellow: Q1/Q5 totem-pole / push-pull gate driver
pink: MOSFET & Diode (Q2/D2)
blue: voltage limiter (some kind of transistor circuit)
green: feedback circuit filter capacitor and R6 in the app note (lower side of a voltage divider)
turquoise: oscillator settings & soft-start capacitor
red: feedback pin, that's what we need
BTW: The MOSFET was destroyed by me (while removing the heatsink), so your boost module might look different :-)
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Dear @zeeref,
I don't know the original type, because I broke mine too.
I used an IRF1405 as replacement.
Greetings
@royvanlierop92
Nonono, the potentiometer is not the main "path" of the current.
The poti is a voltage divider of the voltage, which is induced on the shunt resistor.
Poti & shunt are parallel, the slider is used to regulate the current via in-/decreasing the feedback voltage (depends on the current).
Due to the lack of a "good" load (wire-resistor/potentiometer), I can guess only:
200W (according to Aliexpress title :-)) -> maximum output voltage (according to lable): 55V -> I guess it is 55V :-)
Best wishes
Benjamin,
Question,
I'm a newbie electronics guy. Bought one of the DC/DC Boost converters myself to build a variable power supply. I am going to us an old printer AC/DC power brick that is 32V, 2.5A, which works into this boosters parameters. I hooked it all up, everything works, including varying the voltage. But I'd like to use a larger potentiometer than the little one on the board. I've desoldered the 3296 pot off the board as gently as I could...but not sure how to solder another pot back on. The 3 legs coming off say a 10K pot that I would wire into the booster, which leg goes into which hole in the booster circuit board? I'm definitely not up to tracing down circuits at this point. Any help would be great. thanks Benjamin.
DB
The potentiometer is used as rheostat in this application. The middle output pin is connected to another pin to create a variable resistor. Have a look at this this:
In a rheostat-application the resistor value is much more important then in a potentiometer-application. So measure the resistor value of the old potentiometer (two outmost pins gives the highest value) and just substitute it.
Now how do you connect a substitute potentiometer (rheostat)?
The outmost pads on the boost converter are connected by a link. Thats one connection to your substitute potentiometer. To other goes to the pad mostly to the center.
Benjamin,
I want to build my own Power supply from this unit:
What is the lowest voltage it can still deliver 1A? (Uin = 24V)
Dear @royvanlierop92,
I cannot test it right now, but as this is a classic boost converter type,
I think it is exactly the input voltage, when using a duty cycle of 0%.
Dear all, sry that I missed your comments, no mail notification enabled :-(.
@dbake5206:
If you think of the technology of a typical potentiometer:
You have one resistor, and one slider. I don't know one potentiometer, where the resistors beginning/end is not on the outside pins. the slider is always (in my experience) the middle pin.
So if you want to solder a new poti:
-) slider to the middle pin
-) other ends: don't care at all: either maximum voltage is on one side at maximum, or on the other
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Can any one please tell me whats the name of those mosfets i also accidently broke them of while removing heatsink!
Thanks in advance