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Conclusion
01/28/2018 at 00:54 • 0 commentsFinishing
I used fiber glass mat and epoxy to make a clean surface. I don't know how the glue will hold up. So over engineer it !
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I sanded it :
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I painted it in black with paint laying around :
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Conclusion :
My drill is working great, has a bit more torque as far as I remember, and use the same battery as the other tools. It's really great !
If I had designed the 3D from scratch I could have used just one 3D printed piece, but less work is better.
Quid of the project 4€ for the glue, the rest was laying around in the workshop.
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Meeting in the middle
01/28/2018 at 00:38 • 0 commentsThis time we'll assemble both parts.
Before soldering check the polarity !
In my case reversed from Bosch to Parkside : (see the wires crossed)
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If the polarities are not on the same side it will need some electrical insulation :
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Place glue and let it cure :
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First test :
it's a WIN !
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The Parkside side
01/28/2018 at 00:27 • 0 commentsIt's time to release your anger !
Open the old battery (I had screws). ACT WITH CARE : the battery, even weak, has some energy left and could arc with a watch, ring, bracelet ... and burn you.
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Fit test :
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Hack it up! :
I cut the edges keeping the electrical connector interface.
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In my case the connector was soldered to the board (the black piece on the PCB), so I de-soldered the board from the cells and then de-soldered the connector from the board's underside :![]()
Glue the connector to the case and solder wires ;
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We are done here ! Next comes the assembly.
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The Bosch side
01/28/2018 at 00:01 • 0 commentsThanks to Simhopp : https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1815758.
I printed the Bosch Pro 18v battery socket with my RepRap Emotion µDelta.
Printing parameters : 95% infill at 50mm/s, 0.2mm layer height and support.
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Then make the electrical connection :
The pads are made from a flattened copper plumbing tube with a thickness of 2mm. It will most certainly corrode so remember to later use electrical grease on the pads.
Cut a piece that will fit tightly in the gap then mark the piece with the line you need to cut :
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Cut following the lines (hacksaw would also work) :
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Install them in the groove :
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Test the voltage between connectors with a voltmeter :
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Bend the tabs flush :
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Electrical connectors are in place, socket is ready for soldering.
NPN













In my case the connector was soldered to the board (the black piece on the PCB), so I de-soldered the board from the cells and then de-soldered the connector from the board's underside :








