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DIY ColecoVision

My goal was to create an enhanced drop-in replacement for the ColecoVision that you can build at home using available components.

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My goal is to design a ColecoVision motherboard that you can build standalone or use as a drop-in replacement for existing Colecovision consoles. I use only standard components that are still available today, and not using and FPGAs. Putting everything in one FPGA takes the fun out of this project, so I started out going all TTLs, but using SMD to fit more on the circuit board area. The things I wanted to add included an onboard RGB interface supporting a Sega Scart cable and a second sound chip.

So the first revision was built, using an alternative power switch, not supporting the expansion port. Further revisions were designed, adding things like the expansion bus, pause key, stereo audio with mono switch, support for 9918 (CVBS) as well as 9928/9929 (RGB), and more RAM, built-in video game and USB.

The latest revision I’m working on can switch to SG1000 mode, and I dropped a bunch of SMT-TTLs in favor of GALs. These are used for memory and I/O mapping.

This mainboard drops into both US as well as European ColecoVision cases. You can use the original shielding, but be careful it doesn’t scratch the board and shorts out traces. It may make sense to stick some Kapton tape on the PCB or shielding for protection. Also, depending on which options you choose to build, you may have to add holes to the shield and/or case!


Yes, options! There are many. You can build a basic ColecoVision (CV) with a Composite output, play games and be happy.

But this board was made for experimenting, and a few things are different from a vintage CV. Let me ramble:


Power supply. The CV power supply provided three voltages and was prone to breaking. And the Coleco power switch only switched two of the voltages, so one was always on! So, the board is powered by a single 12V supply with a standard barrel connector. Instead of soldering the connector to the PCB you can use two wires and add a barrel connector with a 3D printed plate at the opening for the stock Coleco power supply jack. So instead of the heavy brick you can use a standard 12V wall wart from Radio Shack. Ok, they’re gone, but you know what I mean. Bonus: the 5V supply for the CV is a 90% efficiency switched power supply, and it’s controlled by a voltage, so the current doesn’t flow through the power switch. This means that most CV power switches can be used on this board, even if one side is broken!

Memory. The CV featured 1K RAM and an 8K BIOS. Since mapping is controlled by a GAL and the unit features 128K RAM plus 128 ROM, various memory maps can be implemented, and since the board has an additional memory mapping register, a lot of stuff can be implemented, like built in games, development support, etc.

Sound. The CV was somewhat limited in that respect, so Coleco planned to add, but never released, a super game module with an AY 3-8910 sound chip. This board has a socket for that sound chip, so going from 3 to 6 voices is a matter of plugging in an AY chip or alternatively a compatible Yamaha chip. As a bonus, the three extra channels use a stereo matrix so you get a left, center and right channel. And an optional stereo/mono switch. Oh, and the AY chip comes with two 8 bit ports that can be used for - anything!

Speech. I have designed a piggyback board with a SP0256-AL2 voice chip. Available at Radio Shack. Oh well.

Video. Oh, the choices. You can use a TMS video display processor (VDP), and since vintage dynamic RAM is kinda hard to get, a modern static RAM is used. There are three VDP choices:

  • TMS9918, which produces composite video @ 60Hz and is cheap. Video goes to three Chinch jacks.
  • TMS9928, which produces component video @60 Hz, so picture is better
  • TMS9929, which produces component video @50 Hz for European users

The two latter choices require the installation of TMSRGB components, yielding crystal clear RGB video on a Sega compatible MiniDIN connector with stereo audio.

But, you can go a completely different route and install a Pico9918. Then you can eliminate a bunch of components, like video RAM and latches and video clock. The board has provisions for a FFC connector going to a VGA jack on the mainboard, and a second FFC going to the MiniDIN, for details see Pico9918 documentation.

Pause. Using a separate ATtiny processor, the reset key can be used to reset (duh), pause or slow down the processor. Lots of opportunities right there!

USB. The board features a USB port, so using an appropriate bootloader you can use it to emulate an ADAM SuperDrive, download games from a PC or access the internet.

Configurations and Sega compatibility. The board is equipped with two dip switches connected to the address and IO mappers. These can be used to map either CV peripherals and memories or map them to their locations on a Sega SG1000. Or other similar Z80 based systems. Just burn a Sega image to a CV cartridge PCB and run it. And you can have two sets of BIOSes for each platform. Only one Sega joystick is supported on the standard CV controller port....

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  • 1
    Getting started

    Before you begin, a few words of caution. Building this is beyond the scope of the average DIYer. Yes, this is a project based on vintage 80s hardware, but some components are surface mount, and you must have experience soldering those! That means using a good, temperature controlled soldering iron, different tips for different solder joint sizes, and possibly spoon cartridges like e.g. the C245931 and flux as well as flux remover for SOIC. Oh, and I prefer leaded solder but suit your taste. I recommend JBC or of you’re on a budget the JaBe Chinese knockoffs. Tweezers and good magnifying glasses are definitely required.


    You don’t need any special tools or programmers. You do need an EPROM programmer to burn your BIOS or games. And I have simplified the schematics by replacing a lot of gates with two GALs. Yes, old technology, but still available, and tooling is free, as opposed to FPGAs. I could have gone the FPGA route, but then you quickly end up doing everything in the FPGA, and that isn’t very retro anymore. And GALs are more manageable for the hobbyist, if you want to tinker. I recommend the TL866 II programmer, which is also able to burn GALs.


    You should have a DVM. A good scope is not required, but can be very helpful to verify everything is working as it should. Even a vintage 20 MHz CRT scope will do. A frequency counter helps too, although these days a scope will do that too.


    Finally: get all parts up front. If you’re into electronics, you should have most resistors and caps in your drawers, but some parts are hard to come by these days, and it’d be a shame if the project ended up 95% complete because something wasn’t available.


    Most parts are available from Mouser or Digikey, RS and o5her local standard parts sources. Go through the instructions, gather which parts of the project you want to build and then compile your shopping lists.


    And it helps if you team up with one or more friends, maybe building one for each? You’ll save on shipping and can fix mistakes together.

  • 2
    Power to the people

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